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  #81  
Old 05-22-2012, 08:10 AM
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Rubenandres77 Rubenandres77 is offline
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Several different things prevented me from working in this project the past months, but I’m back again.

The experience with Pater Zorn’s For Tri-motor taught me some things about this kind of projects. Organization from the very beginning is very important. That's why I could get back to this project easily.

I worked yesterday in the vectorization of part #6, which is very similar (but not identical) to part #4. After checking it, revising the rivets and the gradients, it was ready to be placed on the page.

We have 12 pages already. And out of 65 parts of the kit, 21 of them are already digitally re-created. That means that the advance in this project is practically 33% now. Well, 33% not counting the transcription of the texts and the restoration of images of the history part and the instructions steps. But at least in terms of parts, it’s 33%.

I decided to stick to the A3 size. But the layout of the kit allows it to be printed safely on Double Letter pages too, without any loose/cropping/resizing. So if you live in a country where “A” papers are not the standard, don’t worry: you’ll be able to use Double Letter pages without problem.

The kit will be at A3. But the history and instructions booklet will most probably be available at A4 size. Of course, the layout will also make it compatible to be printed at letter size safely.


In the following image you can see a preview of the new digital kit with the 12 pages that are ready. You can notice I put all the white structural parts in the beginning. The grey parts will be in the following pages. Smaller parts will be included besides the big parts to save space and paper, so don’t be surprised to see the white spaces besides the two grey parts. Those empty spaces will be filled in time with the smaller parts.

The Alan Rose DC-3-ar-dc-3-008.jpg


So, that’s all for today.
Have peace and see you soon in another installment.
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  #82  
Old 05-22-2012, 10:43 AM
SMX Tom SMX Tom is offline
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Ruben,

Thank you for your effort with this project; it is greatly appreciated. The rivets look good I have been a fan of this model for years and it will look great in my office...and one for the den!

Tom
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  #83  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:51 AM
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A. Pirling A. Pirling is offline
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Ruben!


The 12 pages look very good.
So we can expect a wonderfull model.
I like the A3 size of the pages very much.
My A3 printer is waiting for a lot of work.


As soon as the project is ready,
I will begin to build the airplane.
Then I will also write a building report.


Greetings


A. Pirling
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  #84  
Old 05-22-2012, 08:44 PM
Goncalo Mendes Goncalo Mendes is offline
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Just find this thread now. Great work!

As I see it, to do a "full" DC-3, it would be better to enlarge the Geli model, as I think that has a better nose and cockpit window configuration.
Leave this one as is, after all, this is the mitical, Alan DC-3!
Congratulations to all!

G_Mendes
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  #85  
Old 05-26-2012, 01:55 AM
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billy.leliveld billy.leliveld is offline
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I made my own metallic paper;
Using Chromolux board, which is quite thick, 300 grs, or something like that, but it comes close to the original paper
You can't print on normal Chromolux board, but with this stuff you can,it's called Golden Digital ground for non-Porous Surfaces
Digital Grounds
You have to apply it twice , and the ink takes longer to dry than normal , but let it dry for an hour.
It looks just great, even better than Red River paper
Attached Thumbnails
The Alan Rose DC-3-img_1846.jpg   The Alan Rose DC-3-img_1848.jpg   The Alan Rose DC-3-img_1849.jpg   The Alan Rose DC-3-img_1963.jpg  
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  #86  
Old 05-26-2012, 02:12 AM
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Here's the new printed sheet together with the original
Attached Thumbnails
The Alan Rose DC-3-dsc_6338.jpg   The Alan Rose DC-3-dsc_6339.jpg  
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  #87  
Old 05-26-2012, 02:53 AM
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Paper Kosmonaut Paper Kosmonaut is offline
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Billy, I see the original paper seems to be silvery from itself. And the print is gray, as far as I can see.Doesn't that interfere with the original gloss and metallic look of the paper itself?
Anyway, I think the print result is very good!
I saw they sell the products here in town; I might try to do some prints with this.

I am doing Yogi's Atlas V 5XX at the moment and I use brass-coloured metallic look paper with a gloss that is so shiny the laser copiers couldn't get their toner set correctly. I just printed on my inkjet and sprayed a fixative over the fresh print. (the ink already was starting to group itself in little bubbles instead of continuous lines) The result was good enough to be able to cut and work with.
For texts on such glossy surfaces I decided to use selfmade decals but I guess this is much easier...
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  #88  
Old 05-26-2012, 03:19 AM
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billy.leliveld billy.leliveld is offline
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He Jasper,
It's a bit hard to photograph the effect , but the original, on the right and the new print on the left have the same kind of appearance.
Ruben's re-color, which has gray shades , when printed on the metallic paper give it an extra 'layer' because of the printing on metallic paper the grayscale is not so prominent as it would appear on normal paper.
The original is not printed in the "normal" CMYK way, but uses 5 flat colors; Black, Silver,Red , Blue, and a rasterised blue for the background (which looks grey in my pictures)
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  #89  
Old 05-27-2012, 02:54 PM
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Hallo, Billy. The result looks good, anyways! I think I'll get me some of that stuff. I have an Atlas Mercury high on my to-do-list. I'd like to have its skin as shiny as possible!
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  #90  
Old 05-28-2012, 02:21 AM
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The stuff works fine on the thick and non-porous surface of the Chromolux board,The only thing that worries me, is if you apply this stuff to normal paper or board it will wrinkle when it gets wet, but maybe that can be solved by using the same procedure as you would prepare paper for making an watercolor drawing; span it , when it's wet with paper -tape to a board and let it dry ( it will flatten out again)
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