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  #21  
Old 02-21-2008, 08:53 AM
member_3 member_3 is offline
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OK - things are getting a little out of hand now! My work area will no longer serve as a photo location now that the U-Boat has grown to about 22.5" in length.



Closer view of the "bulges" that get added to the rear of this assembly.



ATTENTION FELLOW BUILDERS OF THIS MODEL

I recommend you assemble all hull modules and the stand before joining the modules together. In other words, don't do it the way I am. This model becomes quite unwieldy about the time you add the third hull module.

I recommend that you delay installation of the bow diving planes until all hull modules are built and joined and the ship can rest on its stand. The bow (and stern planes/rudders) are very vulnerable and if you do it the way I did they are almost sure to get damaged when you have to swing the hull around for skinning.
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  #22  
Old 02-21-2008, 08:59 AM
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cjwalas cjwalas is offline
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Notes are definitely being taken here, professor! Looking fantastic!
Chris
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  #23  
Old 02-21-2008, 10:21 AM
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hemingway hemingway is offline
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Hi Old Troll,

thanks for your good advices!
Myself I have to rebuild the nose section due to an error in hull planking ...

Your build is looking great!

Cheers
Bernhard
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  #24  
Old 02-21-2008, 11:43 AM
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Let me restate and revise my previous advice.

1. Build hull sections 1 (without bow planes), 2, 3 and 4 but do not join the hull sections yet.

2. Build the "keel" and the stand (instructions page 4 bottom). NOTE - the stand pieces (W-4, W-5, W-6 and W-7) need to be laminated to 1mm - I have advised Kooklik to add that note.

3. Join the hull sections.

4. Add the keel to the hull.

5. At this point the hull can rest safely on the stand and will be less susceptible to damage.

6. Add the bow planes.

7. Pick up the construction at the bottom of page 2 and away we go!

With regard to skinning the hull, I first glued the upper strips ensuring they were even with the top of the bulkheads. I then wrapped the lower skins, trimming the upper edge (if necessary) to achieve a butt joint with the upper strip. The most I had to trim was about 1/32" on the second hull section. When joining the hull sections it is possible to adjust the fit by trimming/sanding the protrusions on the preceding section in order to get a nice tight join. I actually never had to do that because of the accuracy of Kooklik's design but it's there if you have to.

On to hull section four, the "keel" and the stand so I can sort of follow my own advice above...
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2008, 02:50 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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This is really great, Ron and Kooklik.

I know I will never build this submarine, but it was wonderful to watch Kooklik develop it and now to see it take shape under Ron's hands. I intend to buy it just to be able to look and wonder at and to imagineer (and maybe to build parts of) and intend to get another one as a Christmas gift for an old buddy who is very likely to build it (or use parts of it in a multi-media model). And I will cut and paste your building tutorial to send along with the CD.

Don
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  #26  
Old 02-21-2008, 03:09 PM
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B-Manic B-Manic is offline
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Thumbs up

OT

Your build is coming along great, very impressive.

I have had some problems with parts like those elliptical bulges in the past. I usually can't get them aligned at the top without a gap or bending. Now I glue them on after the top piece (usually a deck) is in place, if at all possible of course.

Thanks for sharing your voyage of discovery. It looks like I'm not the only one that will be using this thread as a build guide.

~ cheers Douglas
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  #27  
Old 02-22-2008, 04:40 AM
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kooklik kooklik is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldTroll View Post
Let me restate and revise my previous advice.

1. Build hull sections 1 (without bow planes), 2, 3 and 4 but do not join the hull sections yet.

2. Build the "keel" and the stand (instructions page 4 bottom). NOTE - the stand pieces (W-4, W-5, W-6 and W-7) need to be laminated to 1mm - I have advised Kooklik to add that note.

3. Join the hull sections.

4. Add the keel to the hull.

5. At this point the hull can rest safely on the stand and will be less susceptible to damage.

6. Add the bow planes.

7. Pick up the construction at the bottom of page 2 and away we go!

With regard to skinning the hull, I first glued the upper strips ensuring they were even with the top of the bulkheads. I then wrapped the lower skins, trimming the upper edge (if necessary) to achieve a butt joint with the upper strip. The most I had to trim was about 1/32" on the second hull section. When joining the hull sections it is possible to adjust the fit by trimming/sanding the protrusions on the preceding section in order to get a nice tight join. I actually never had to do that because of the accuracy of Kooklik's design but it's there if you have to.

On to hull section four, the "keel" and the stand so I can sort of follow my own advice above...

------------------------------------------
Dear Ron
Your notices will be added to the instruction.
Thanks for your worth feed backs.

BR.
----kooklik----
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  #28  
Old 02-23-2008, 05:04 AM
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Lex Lex is offline
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The weathered version is a spectacle!!!!! Can't wait for more!!
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  #29  
Old 02-23-2008, 04:59 PM
member_3 member_3 is offline
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The weathering is so realistic that when I was asked about the crusty, white deposits on the hull (my sloppy glueing) I replied, "Those are barnacles. They are part of the weathering." and the questioner believed me! I'm in the the last painful stages of attaching the "keel" and will have more photos soon (no closeups though,,,not my finest hour). I just received a copy of the JSC 1:72 Type XXIII boat and was stunned at the difference in sizes of the two U-boats. That Type XXIII was tiny!
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  #30  
Old 02-26-2008, 02:14 PM
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birder birder is offline
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Old troll, good job, do aircraft ever get barnacles....
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