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  #11  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:54 AM
Hambone Hambone is offline
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Hello Ze' Reis

I to am the owner of Variag with all the lazor cut parts and formers. In my kit there is also wooden decking. The wood is very thin and comes with the planking etched into it and all spots marked for deck fittings. I have not decided if I will use the wood deck or the paper one. In keeping with papermodels I should use the paper but it would be fun just this once to experiment with the wooden one. Anyway I will be watching your progress with interest and hope to learn from you. My kit also has different shades of green for the under Hull so it will definatly have to be painted.

Respectfully,
Dennis
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2011, 07:15 AM
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piotter piotter is offline
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Hello


Ze Reis - here you have model building with this issue and all these additives.
An excellent build. I think it will help you.


I will follow this thread ( keeping fingers crossed for Varyag ).
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2011, 09:03 AM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hambone View Post
Hello Ze' Reis

I to am the owner of Variag with all the lazor cut parts and formers. In my kit there is also wooden decking. The wood is very thin and comes with the planking etched into it and all spots marked for deck fittings. I have not decided if I will use the wood deck or the paper one. In keeping with papermodels I should use the paper but it would be fun just this once to experiment with the wooden one. Anyway I will be watching your progress with interest and hope to learn from you. My kit also has different shades of green for the under Hull so it will definatly have to be painted.

Respectfully,
Dennis

Use the wood decking. Wood is paper unrealized!!
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:18 PM
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Zé Reis Zé Reis is offline
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Dancooper > No problem. When you look for something else, you'll find the barrels. A different version of the Murphy law. No problem.


Hambone > Your preference is the most important.
I like to make a paper model with the maximum paper and minimum role of other materials. But I also like to vary the techniques. I recently did two paper models completely painted (Kraz 255b and trailer PN 1,5).

If you have a wood deck, OK! apply it, and then shows us.


piotter > Thanks by link. All kind of information is important.
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  #15  
Old 05-04-2011, 05:33 PM
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Zé Reis Zé Reis is offline
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First parts


Are three that together give rise Variag profile.





The 26 pieces that linked will define the lines of the hull.








To give an idea of the dimensions left my hand in photo. For now, construction is flexible like a snake.








Now I apply the sides, six parts that will fix the structure.





Thus, all set stay rigid.





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  #16  
Old 05-04-2011, 07:55 PM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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Well your off to an excellent start. I was amazed how long the propeller shafts were on that ship, amazing!
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2011, 02:19 AM
Dancooper Dancooper is offline
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I am on the first row to follow you built, man, I just love those old ships.
Often those flexy bulkhead assemblies remind me of thos bamboo or plastic snakes I used to play with as a kid, many decades ago :D
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2011, 06:22 AM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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Nice beginning with the frame.
I always enjoy the long sleek look of the cruisers.
Mike
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  #19  
Old 05-07-2011, 03:13 PM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Variag was a beautiful ship, as were many of the protected cruisers of that period. Your very clean, straight, and true frame shows one of the reasons why: the slender, graceful hull shape.

You have begun with an excellent foundation for your model.

Don
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  #20  
Old 05-11-2011, 07:02 PM
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Zé Reis Zé Reis is offline
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Parts for close the decks. On top these, later, will be placed two more layers.





We get two levels of decks, the deck of the bow and at a lower level the main deck.





Viewed from the keel side.





Upper Works
Are the main parts that will now apply. I will not cut portholes because I don't see justification for this. The drawing of them gives a good illusion of illumination light/dark. To give some relief will sink them slightly. For this I use a 2mm drill where I give a little tap with a hammer.




Seen from the inside.





Final appearance.





All the main set ready to be glued to the model.





But, before, I sand the ribs so that the straight parties remain with hull profile.


Before...



... and after sand

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