Shipyard's HMS Bellona - Page 3

**Gil** · #21 11-11-2011, 12:05 AM

What's with all the drywall equipment anyway!...,

Nicely done hull and sets the tone for the rest of the build. I'm settling back to watch and as you're about to get a snow dump you should have lots of time for building...,

+Gil

**Ron0909** · #22 11-11-2011, 12:51 AM

Hi Gil,

Did I mention it before? Glad to have you along

This one should get finished
unlike the Bergpanther, a Fokker or 2 etc. etc. You did mention something about fill, sand and fill again.... My wife just finished mopping the floors especially under my hobby area and I just go and sand a whack of spackling.
Good thing I cleaned it up before she came around to say hello! I didn't want to admit it but it did need it. The photo tells the plain ugly truth. My question is 'should I seal it again with urethane prior to applying the veneer?'

That's it for today
Ron

**Gil** · #23 11-11-2011, 04:01 AM

Hi Ron,

Depends on the adhesive backing on the veneer. My guess is that it will probably stick to the urethane better than sanded wood. Might be a good idea to do a go/no-go test and see how easy it pulls off the candidate surfaces...,

+Gil

**Ron0909** · #24 11-11-2011, 04:19 AM

Heya Gil,

The veneer is plain wood...no glue at all. I'm thinking a fine scuffing of the urethane should allow anything to grab a hold. I have a bottle of Gorilla brand CA that has a fine rubber particulate mixed in. Might be good as a tiny bit of flexibility might allow the veneer to flex a tad if needed on the card body. The learning is half the fun! I can see what drives your experimentation

Ron

**Papercut** · #25 11-12-2011, 11:14 AM

I have followed your build of this most wonderful vessel. I really like how you have done the hull, very clean and a great base for planking. As for glue, you have also used spackling for a filler, this will as you already know require something to seal it for the glue to grab. Your poly will work fine, I suggest a couple coats sanding between.
Now as for as gluing the planks, I do not know your back ground in plank on frame with wood planks, but I soak the wood w/water&ammonia, this makes the planks form to the sweep of the hull and when dry after gluing, they have taken on the shape of the hull w/little or no stress against the frame. Now this takes a glue that sets off with the glued material wet, (lay the planks on a paper towel to wick off as much water as possible). I believe Gorilla glue, not sure about their CA is a water acviated adheasive. I would suggest trying this out on something else 1st. You will need to adjust the planking. Also with wood strips as the planking, planking clamps are a great help too.
Looking forward to more of you build of her.

Rick

**Gil** · #26 11-12-2011, 12:30 PM

Hi Ron,

My enthusiasm for Gorilla Glue has waned after long term tests proved it to be susceptible to outdoor exposure. That; it's messy clean-up; stain masking affects; and short shelf life have dimmed my view of marketing claims. It is fun to mix it with acetone and leave in the mixing cup to watch it bubble up as it sets though...,

The only reliable adhesive is epoxy but that's a bit over the edge here.

Hide glue is the traditional adhesive for veneer but is messy to deal with. An alternative is contact cement but it also has downside complications.

Plain old carpenter's PVA [aliphatic resin] is your best low cost bet for this application [it would be my first choice]. It also rhymes well with Rick's recommendations.

+Gil

**Ron0909** · #27 11-12-2011, 01:23 PM

Hi Rick,
I jumped ahead and did seal it again. I imagined the spackling would just suck in anything put to it. That Gorilla CA is just CA. I know what you're saying about the other stuff they make. It *is* moisture activated and expands like crazy. The CA has some invisible rubber particles in it and doesn't grab or wick as fast as normal CA. It's a little thicker and gives a few more seconds working time. I'll follow your advice and play a bit before I bite the bullet! The veneer strips are really thin (my plastic crappy caliper
says aprox. .33mm) so bending them is not much of a problem. I'm going to try both my butane soldering iron and my wife's steam iron and see what works best. What confuses me is all the literature available in regard to planking. Start at the garboard
and work up to the wale, wale down to the garboard or somewhere in the middle? Full stealers and half stealers add to the mystery! This is my very first ship model with zero experience in anything other than my aircraft paper models. I'm going in on a feeling and the kindly advice here

**Papercut** · #28 11-12-2011, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron0909

Hi Rick,
I jumped ahead and did seal it again. I imagined the spackling would just suck in anything put to it. That Gorilla CA is just CA. I know what you're saying about the other stuff they make. It *is* moisture activated and expands like crazy. The CA has some invisible rubber particles in it and doesn't grab or wick as fast as normal CA. It's a little thicker and gives a few more seconds working time. I'll follow your advice and play a bit before I bite the bullet! The veneer strips are really thin (my plastic crappy caliper
says aprox. .33mm) so bending them is not much of a problem. I'm going to try both my butane soldering iron and my wife's steam iron and see what works best. What confuses me is all the literature available in regard to planking. Start at the garboard
and work up to the wale, wale down to the garboard or somewhere in the middle? Full stealers and half stealers add to the mystery! This is my very first ship model with zero experience in anything other than my aircraft paper models. I'm going in on a feeling and the kindly advice here

Best advice one can give is go with what you know and your gut feelings. Try out on scrape before starting on the real thing. Glue is one of those things that is like food, everyone has a fav. A glue you would not exspect to see mention is the following: Formula 560, this is a glue I use to attach canopys with, drys clear and is flexable. The stuff grabs good, but take 24 hours to cure out. Have not had problems w/painting, but that is using an enamel paint, not water base, just a thought. Forgot about heat for plank bending, I am too ole school!

Rick

**birder** · #29 11-12-2011, 02:10 PM

Ron good luck with whatever you try...planking with paper strips on the Tuft explained to me clearly about the differences needed in width very narrow near the bow, and at the stern gaps are left which need extra peices fitted in. I started at the deck line and worked down as the garboards by the keel will always be of a different shape and need to be cut to fit. (did I mention I wouldn't use wood planks for that? Ha..still Shipyard has it figured out, no need to reinvent the wheel as they say) I sure do like the look of the wood planks for decking..and the wood builders edgecolor the wood planks black to simulate the tarred oakum that was used for caulking.....

**Gil** · #30 11-12-2011, 02:45 PM

Ron,

The Gorilla CA is similar to the stuff used by RC car people to glue tires to the rim. It's good stuff - works with metal too. Only problem is that once you put down something with it, it's attached. To remove it requires "grinding it off".

I forgot to include Aleene's Tacky Glue. It has the characterisitics of RC-56...,

+Gil