Shipyard's HMS Bellona

[Ron0909]

Hi everyone,

After picking everyone's brain in another thread and after a kind suggestion to create a build thread, here it is...Shipyards's HMS Bellona in 1:96. Unfortunately I didn't have much of a camera at the time of the initial framing so we can just skip over the awful pics from that time. Bulkheads are bulkheads as long as they are kept nice and straight Please keep in mind that this is my first ship model. Be nice! (Just kidding...lay it on!!)

The following images of the lower hull show a deviation from Shipyard's plan as I found Doris' re-skin of her Bellona and learned a ton! Have a look here
ModelForum • Zobrazit téma - HMS BELLONA - remake / Shipyard /1:96

Doris abandoned Shipyard's shaped strips of 1mm card for her own. I changed it up again and did the entire hull in 1/4 inch strips of 1mm card. Doing it this way allowed me to round out the hull a bit where it was needed and hopefully eliminated some of the flat spots inherent with the original method. If you're going to attempt this method, don't try to force the strips to curve where they won't. Following the natural lines and curves of the bulkheads works like a charm! Everything was glued with CA and then given a coat of polyurethane to seal everything in place. Next step is a good sanding and a bit of filling. Luckily no filling was needed this far (knock on wood!). What's really neat is how solid it all is after the glue and urethane set. If I can get this to look even 1/10th as beautiful as Doris' Bellona, I'll be happy! Oh yeah...one needs to add the remainder of the keel...

The last image is of the stuff I can't wait to use. These are 3/16 and 1/8 inch strips of cherry veneer which are going to cover the hull. Maple strips will cover the decks. I know it strays from paper a bit but I'm a modeler looking to build a beautiful representation of a ship and not a purist. Do you pro's recommend completing the lower hull and moving on or doing all the rough work and then the finish veneer? My thinking was to complete it up to the gun ports and then flip it upright and continue on...

More to come!
Ron

[Zathros]

Whatever you do, don't sand or smooth that beautifully textured hull. It looks great!!

[Gil]

Hi Ron,

Something new here?...., Looks great so far.

Sand and fill, sand and fill..., Should look really great after a tad of abrasive abuse..., Make sure to give her a coat of shellac when smooth and done...,

Bien Cordialement, +Gil

[Ron0909]

Hi guys

How can you tell that a new camera came into the house? getting bloody snap happy! Zathros, sorry, we need to sand....I was really impressed with the way that plain old 1mm cheapo card looked after it was worked like this though. It has future potential I think. Hi Gil! It's been awhile. I'm really glad to see you're still here. Here's the result of some 'abrasive abuse' and another coat of polyurethane. My guess is that 10 minutes with a bit of filler in a skin coat in a few spots and she's ready for veneer. I can't stress enough how good the polyurethane works as a sealer. Prior to sealing, the card would literally peel away when sanded. After sealing it sands almost like wood. Keel tomorrow and possibly the gun port covers. I want to play with some of the veneer strips there before I cover the hull.

Talk soon!
Ron

[Zathros]

It's your model, do whatever pleases you. Just a humble observation Either way, she looks great. The hull in the first pics reminded me of the H.M.S. Rose (renamed the "Surprise" in "Master and Commander: The Far Side" while she still was berthed in Bridgeport Ct. When you run you hands alongside these ships and work on them up close, the first thing that strikes me, is how unlike the models they look. These ships just have so much character in the hulls, it's a shame when the models get polished smooth as glass, some character seems to get lost. However, that being said, that is one true, straight and fair hull you have there! It looks like you have a masterpiece coming together.

[Ron0909]

My God! Here's my desktop

Thank you for your insight and for giving me another view of my daily inspiration.
I see your point in regard to the pristine hulls on models. I don't see a ship of this period looking to be finished like fine cabinetry. Hopefully I'll be able to maintain that feeling of functionality as I go along. I've been thinking of tapering the edges of each plank to look like it's been caulked (at least a very fine gap). I'm going to break up the planks as well as I can't see using strips over the entire length of the hull. The other question is whether or not to even look at copper plating...I saw a model where the guy had used the copper strips used it stained-glass making. It looks incredible to say the least. Ahhh...lots of brain food

[legion]

Nice looking hull indeed!

One ship that would be very hard to make would be the Flying Dutchman from the Pirates o/t Carribean movies.

[BrianTJohnston]

Having made the mistake on my first plank on bulkhead model, I would like to offer some advice before you attempt the second layer of planking. The planking of a hull was actually a very complex affair which I would advise you to do some serious research on. If you look at the hull planking in "The Anatomy of the Ship - HMS Bellona" you will see that particularly the upper levels of planking are very complex and whether you decide to recreate that is up to you. However the planking below the main wale is where most modellers go wrong. Basically, there should be the same number of planks for the full length of the hull at each frame. Now the girth measured round the outside of the frame will be different at each frame and therefore the width of the planks will differ equally. Try to get hold of "Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders" by Donald Dressel. Similarly, there is a definite pattern in the positioning of the joints in the length of the planks to avoid weaknesses because of joints being too close to one another.

The main thing that shows up the problem on your model is the long narrow oval left against the keel. In fact the plank nearest the keel, called the garboard strakeshould be one piece running smoothly from stem to stern.

All that said, you have a superbly shaped hull structure, beautifully faired.

I look forward to seeing the project continue

Brian

[Papercut]

Nice, very nice. I like your thinking outside the box. I for one have no problem with the addition of wood, after all what is paper/card made from, so in away, you are still within the realm.
I wished we could see what you came up with for the frame. I know what you said is true, but in fact, the frame is the start of the vessel, and however it turns out, is how the rest will look. From what I see, yours is dead on. Most builders of card wood hulled ships have a very difficult time with the covering of the frame prior to planking, reguardless of the material used.
Will watch this one.
Where did you get the strips of wood from?
Rick

[Zathros]

Ron0909, I was able to donate some time on the H.M.S. Rose when she was being restored, many many people did. Not much time, but enough time to walk all in and about here. i used to sail a Pearson 10 meter sloop and spent a couple of July 4th's a couple of 100 feet anchored away from her. The Tchaikovsky's 18th Overture was playing when she fired her runs to the timing of the song, it was a blast to hear something like that!!

You ship has the foundation of a real beauty. Brian T. Johnston explanation of the planking is right on the money too. What a lot of people need to do is look at the bow of the boat, and imagine the ship pounding on the high seas, and how each plank would take that hit, where the impact forces would be. The planking must be more than aesthetics for a convincing model. You'll kick yourself in the hidnquarters later on if you don't get this part right. I helped restore a clinker built very small boat at Mystic Seaport, and but have built very few models requiring planking, but the real ones can and are reproduced in model ship. Good Luck!!