IJN I-400 "Sen Toku" Submarine in 1:200

[Fishcarver]

Here is where we encountered the first obvious fit problems.

Other than the hangar, the first part of the upper works are made up of parts #65 and 66. Part 65 is a long strip that wraps entirely around #66., which in turn forms the upper gun deck on the hangar. There are three large openings in #65 (2 starboard and 1 port)

Once 65 was attached to 66 and dry fitted to the hangar, it became obvious that were a couple of nasty fit problems around the openings in part #65. In the original 1:400 scale, these would probably not have posed a major problem. However, in 1:200 scale, some "welding" became necessary.



SO: I dug out the trusty low-tack masking tape, mixed some MicroFill with Tamiya IJN Grey, and filled the offending areas.

Tomorrow, we shall see how this works out.... stay tuned......

MTF
Jim

[Fishcarver]

Please, God, do not make me have to mask and paint all of those grey parts of the upper hull...please???

[cdavenport]

Originally Posted by Fishcarver

Please, God, do not make me have to mask and paint all of those grey parts of the upper hull...please???

To which God do you plea, the fickle, jealous, vengeful God of the Old Testament or the loving, caring, forgiving One of the New Testament? Actually, either way, I think you're screwed!!!

You are much more tenacious than I. I once put tremendous effort into a cute little Russian sub only to see that the waterlines did not match up no matter what I did. I threw the whole thing away and started on something else. If I have to put that much energy and thought into the thing, it better damned well fly!!!

[Fishcarver]

"And yet it shall be welded"

The surgery hath been more or less successful....

Onward!
MTF
Jim

[Fishcarver]

My late Uncle Stan taught me a couple of important precepts:
Discipline means "If you want the result, then you must do the work. No matter how hard/boring/tedious it is".
Patience means "How long can you sustain discipline?" You gotta know when to walk away.....(leave it alone).

Have lunch! Pet your cat! Watch TV! Take your wife/GF out to lunch. The model is not going anywhere....

As far as modeling goes, you can always leave it alone if you get fed up. Or ask for help.

Perfectionism teaches nothing...except for frustration.

Thanks, Uncle Stan!!

MTF
Jim

[cdavenport]

That is amazing. I would have never thought it would work! I'm going to go back and carefully inspect your photos.

[cdavenport]

SO: I dug out the trusty low-tack masking tape, mixed some MicroFill with Tamiya IJN Grey, and filled the offending areas.

Tomorrow, we shall see how this works out.... stay tuned......

MTF
Jim[/QUOTE]


Ok, Jim, here's the questions. What is Microfil and how does it work? Is a two-art epoxy or an air-dried putty of some sort.

What function does the low-tack tape serve? Are you holding parts together or using it to shape the Microfil to the contours of the hull.?

[Fishcarver]

Maj. Chuck:

Micro-Fill is a product manufactured by NHP Co. Inc, 200 Mt.Laurel Circle, Shirley MA 01464 (www.flashglue.com) . It is a white, glass-powder-and adhesive -based filler intended for balsa models. (Here I read from the jar: "Sands like Balsa. Carves like Balsa. No Shrink. Accepts most paints")

It is a one-part, tintable, air-drying VERY FINE filler similar to "Plastic Wood", except MUCH more controllable.....eg: water thinable; water clean up.

It works VERY VERY WELL on paper models, especially if the "paper" is prepped with something like Preserve It. It tints easily with paint, and sands out "BB's Rs smooth"

It saved my "Rs" on Surcouf......

GIL mentioned in my Surcouf post a formula for making a home brew version of this stuff, using ( I believe) talcum powder as a filling agent, mixed with dilute white glue: see here: Fly Model 139 "SURCOUF" in 1:160

I also experimented with Permaplast Clay Crete, a fine white papier mache, mixed with white glue. That works quite well also.

Some of the folks here have used drywall filler...I dunno about that....

I used the low-tack masking tape so as to confine the microfill to the areas most needing attention; therefore, not having to mask and repaint too much.

Low-tack automotive masking tape will mask, but can be easily removed without ripping up the substrate....

Hope this answers your questions!
Regards,
Jim

[Fishcarver]

will always Trump Youth and a Bad Haircut"....
-4 Pl, BAOT, CFB Petawawa, 1984



Jim

[cdavenport]

Originally Posted by Fishcarver

Maj. Chuck:

Micro-Fill is a product manufactured by NHP Co. Inc, 200 Mt.Laurel Circle, Shirley MA 01464 (www.flashglue.com) . It is a white, glass-powder-and adhesive -based filler intended for balsa models. (Here I read from the jar: "Sands like Balsa. Carves like Balsa. No Shrink. Accepts most paints")

It is a one-part, tintable, air-drying VERY FINE filler similar to "Plastic Wood", except MUCH more controllable.....eg: water thinable; water clean up.

It works VERY VERY WELL on paper models, especially if the "paper" is prepped with something like Preserve It. It tints easily with paint, and sands out "BB's Rs smooth"

It saved my "Rs" on Surcouf......

GIL mentioned in my Surcouf post a formula for making a home brew version of this stuff, using ( I believe) talcum powder as a filling agent, mixed with dilute white glue: see here: Fly Model 139 "SURCOUF" in 1:160

I also experimented with Permaplast Clay Crete, a fine white papier mache, mixed with white glue. That works quite well also.

Some of the folks here have used drywall filler...I dunno about that....

I used the low-tack masking tape so as to confine the microfill to the areas most needing attention; therefore, not having to mask and repaint too much.

Low-tack automotive masking tape will mask, but can be easily removed without ripping up the substrate....

Hope this answers your questions!
Regards,
Jim

Perfectly answered mon ami! I was really curious about the Microfil because a Google search offered a number of different solutions. The microfil sounds much like microballons which the RC guys used. But, you say this stuff can be activated with water? I'm going to give it a try!

Thanks so much, Jim!