Oven Bluff Shipyards begin work on Morgan Class - Page 2

**ct ertz** · #11 03-28-2012, 06:29 PM

I like this ship because the designers were on to something. Rather then try and armor the who thing, they armored the engine and boilers with an internal unseen "citadel". The idea was speed and maneuverability was as good as armor. The open guns meant that they were not restricted to short range use because they could be elevated. Although it is unclear, as many as 10 of these were completed, or nearly so by wars end. The South might have done better to produce ships like these rather then full on ironclads. I only wish the name of this ship would have survived. It was launched, armed and in service, and may have participated in shelling land units, yet the name is lost! We know that some of the machinery was made in Georgia, at Columbus, but no name! Strange.

Jeff, that build is looking great! Thanks for your help.
CT

**marco1971** · #12 03-30-2012, 02:16 PM

hello Jeff,

fine work with this ship!

Marco

**jimkrauzlis** · #13 03-30-2012, 05:10 PM

Superb build, Jeff; excellent looking design, Corey...a dynamic duo!

Looking forward to seeing more as you continue with this build.

Cheers!
Jim

**Paperwarrior** · #14 03-30-2012, 06:05 PM

Thank you, gentlemen. Much appreciated. I tell you what though, pictures don't lie do they. Ugh! That bow looks bad. I didn't notice until I took a second look at the photos. I picked up a special glue nozzle in hopes of fixing the mistake. Let me just say here that it is NOT Corey's model. That was me not getting the clue on the edge of the paper properly. GRRRRR! Again, thanks for the comments.

This was my first week back to work after surgery and after catching up I found out I'm being moved to another division of the directorate where I work to take over a new project. busy busy busy.

I'm looking forward to gettting more work done on this beauty this weekend. Standby from more updates from the Oven Bluff Gazzette.

Jeff

**sporticus** · #15 04-01-2012, 07:52 AM

Ah, I see!! Carry on the good work!! Looking forward to this adding to the backlog of ships I want to rescale and make :-)

**Paperwarrior** · #16 04-30-2012, 07:05 PM

Hello Gang,

First off my apologies for not keeping upt to date on this model. I've changed jobs at work being put in charge of a huge project and that has taken up a great deal of my time...along with some community support efforts. Okay, enough of the wimpers!

As stated before this model is a pleasure to put together. I will point out some of the issues I'm having with it. These are NOT due to Corey's design, but more due to my lack of skill.

Corey has an interesting way to transition from the outer to the inner hull above the main deck. There is a bit of an "A" frame between the outer hull and an inner part. He then caps it off with a strip. This can be tricky to get the angle right and keep it from obtaining too narrow an angle at the top (my main problem). corey is kind enough to put a small blue "diagram" on the paddlewheel houses to show the proper angle. My issue was maintaining that going around curves and angles. Grrrr!!! You can see the cap in photo #1 and the efforts in #2 and #3 where I didn't get the spacing at the top proper.

In photo #4 I took the liberty of recoloring the blue areas used to show part placement brown so that the blue wouldn't show around the parts. Some of these are a real tight fit as far as the size of the part vs. the size of the blue.

In #5 I used a glue tab for the wheelhouse. I'm not great at butt joints and this really helped.

In #6 are some small bits..sky lights etc. These fell together...very well designed.

In #7 are some of my layout change recommendations. As to this I defer to those who really know what they are doing when designing. Here is the issue. For this moddle there are a few parts that are suppose to be doubled. No problem there, but I think cutting out the parts to size, then trying to put them together and get the sides exactly flat (I know you can always sand them like I did, but...) is difficult. My recommendation is to make the gray parts oversized and connect them to their "colored" part so that you score between them and fold them over on each other. Then, when it comes time to cut out the part you cut along the "colored" part and the gray side is automatically the right size with flat sides ready for coloring to hide the white. Does that make ANY sense?

Look for more updates soon (I do have some more done).

Jeff

Oh, one question to the field. I am getting ready to put the ventalators together but need to color the inside. What color? I would think gray, but I've seen some kits on this forum where are some that are red inside.

Again, thanks

**ct ertz** · #17 04-30-2012, 07:26 PM

Good work so far. I wondered how the strengthened or thickened bulwarks would work out. I tried it just doubled and they look way too thin. I like your color idea too. Keep up the good build!

**Miles Linnabery** · #18 05-01-2012, 06:45 AM

Dear Jeff:
old navy thing if it is metal slap an coat of red lead paint on it, this was one of the cheapist paints during the period.
hope this helps,
MILES

**Don Boose** · #19 05-01-2012, 07:04 AM

Jeff -
The build looks very good indeed. Very precise work on the smaller parts.

I think your idea about making the plain gray side of a doubled part oversize is a good one. David Hathaway and Avery Boyer, among others, use that approach and John Glessner (DrLaser) has shown something similar for biplane wing struts.

Don

**Paperwarrior** · #20 05-01-2012, 08:06 AM

Thanks guys. Much appreciated on the comments and color ideas. I'll get right on 'em.

Don, I'll admit I'm a bit lazy. If we do the fold over with one half over sized it means that only one cut has to be made to size the part rather than two (and then try to line them up and sand the edges) and the part is done. Half the steps equals half the work. Lazy.

Jeff