Laser cut railings - how to?

[Kevin WS]

Any tips on handling these this? In 1/250 they are so tiny and fragile!

1. Best way to attach them?

2. Paint before or after attaching?

3. Is varnishing them a good?

4. In fact when making a ship model in 1/250 is it a good to varnish it (spray varnish) beforehand (something I do with "building" models).

5. Attaching one railing to another vertically? Suitable glues?

I have been fired up and want to do some ship models, and these are the main areas for which I would really appreciate some input. Will probably start with something small like the free workboat Don, Marco and others have done.

[Longbow]

Kevin,

This is an area which is a nasty one.
I tried it on my 1/250 'De Ruyter' model (Ships and watercraft area).
What i did was
- spray then with black paint (water based). This is a spray from the Games Workshop which I use on the metal and plastic 'The Lord of the Rings' figures)
- paint the railings in the required colour before attaching them
- I attach them with a more solid all purpose glue. In critical points I support the railings with tiny needles behind the stands.
- touch up the railings with paint afterwards.

Good luck !!!
Klaas

[Kevin WS]

Thanks Klaas!

I already have the Games Workshops sprays - i also use the black. The matt varnish I use on all my paper models.

Cross fingers!

[Kevin WS]

No more input from anyone??!!!!

[Fishcarver]

IMHO; if these are laser-etched card railings: spray BOTH SIDES of the sheet with a matte fixative (2 coats) and allow them to thoroughly dry, before you try to cut them apart.

If they are photo-etched brass, they need to be cleaned in hot, soapy water;(use an old toothbrush) rinsed, dried, and then sprayed with matte fixative. (The reason for this is to remove the silicone/masking fluid from the brass)

Hope this helps!
Jim

[Kevin WS]

Thanks Jim.

Paper laser etch is what I have.

[Royaloakmin]

You can paint them with acrylic after removing from the frames. Take it easy as they are even more fragile when wet. Mix a little PVA (carpenter's glue) with the paint. Use any good paper glue to attach. Spraying assembled paper models with clear or gloss after assembly is usually a bad idea. No matter what method you use, practice is needed to get good with the laseretch.

[Michael Mash]

I have never worked with Laser Cut railings, so I can't offer you any advice specific to them. However, regarding paper ships in general: If a part or assembly does not please you, make another. If that one is not right, make another. If that one is not right, make another. If that one is not right, make another. Soon, you will disover a way .............. and it will be your way.
Mike

[Kevin WS]

Thanks Fred.

You mention that spraying assembled paper models is a bad idea. Can you enlarge on this please?

I have been using the Games Workshops matt spray on all my paper models after building and have had no issues. But I must stress the models have been armour, trains and buildings - not ships!

I also would not chance it using any other make of spray. The Games Workshops sprays leaves a nice semi gloss or eggshell finish on paper.

I also always spray the sheets before cutting out.

[Golden Bear]

As Mike said, don't be afraid to call it a loss if you don't like it - just do it over until you get it to where you like it!

I have tried treating these railings with a liquid floor wax before using - did not work at all well. I have also "painted" them with superglue to stiffen them and this sort of works. The problem with the superglue is that it makes the railings brittle and they can snap when you are forming them.

In the end, my best technique was to use a water based paint from the art store, not a normal modeler's paint. This had the advantage that it dried as a sort of rubbery finish so that the part could be shaped without breaking and did not distort the part.

Carl