TAURUS TUG by Pro-Model

**Bionic Modeler** · #1 10-03-2012, 03:24 PM

This is a build thread which I am going to dierest towards less experienced modelers. So if you are experienced feel free to jump in and offer your suggestions as well because this is a teaching thread. Tips and tricks welcome.

I begin with the draded formers. We all hate them becasue they are difficult to cut no matter ho you do it. I use scizzors where I can, a paper cutter for all the straight cuts (this saves my hands and then finally a blade when I have too. Use whatever works for you.

The formers on ths model a many but lacking in places where I like them I took the pictures in the order of assembly. I like a relatively loose fit becaseu they can be a nightmare to get togeter if they are too tight. But not too loose because they fall apart easily. I got the fit just right on this one and didn't need any glue. I have found that whenever I glued them in place invariably there would be a peice that didn't reach the former where it should and I had to cut it loose to make it fit properly. So I don't glue them unless it is too loose or in a place that simply requires it. The hull plates will hold everything together anyway. Of course this is just my preference do what makes you comfortable.

**Bionic Modeler** · #2 10-03-2012, 03:37 PM

Here I have added additional formers that I feel should be there. It is where the hull plates curve around the bottom. I believe additional support is needed there to help maintain strengthen the hull plates and prevent denting it in a fragile area. This is not necessary but I find it helps. Please note that the formers are laminated on cerial box cardboard. This brings them to the 1mm thickness in the design. I used 3M spray glue. I find cutting the pieces out first and them laying them out as they best fit your available cardboard works best. Also keep in mind that there is a grain to the cardboard so if you need a lot of strength in a certain direction then lay your part out accordingly. Simply bend it each way and you will see which way is the strongest. Also if a part is curved then you want to use it in the flexible direction so it bends easily. I failed to include the cover photo so I will do so now.

**richkat** · #3 10-03-2012, 04:22 PM

Man that's a lot of formers! looking good so far.....Rich

**Michael Mash** · #4 10-04-2012, 10:14 AM

This tugboat has a great appearance.
I wish you the best with it.
Mike

**Clashster** · #5 10-04-2012, 11:01 AM

Good looking start!

**Greg S.** · #6 10-04-2012, 12:02 PM

Dear Bionic Modeler,

I thought your post #1 was intriguing. The idea of loose formers has never occurred to me. It got me thinking. How about gluing the formers solidly to the base near the center line and up to near the edges, where you would apply no glue at all? This might allow a little "give" for the skin of the hull.

**Bionic Modeler** · #7 10-04-2012, 07:16 PM

Yes that is the general idea. You have to apply some glue here and there to keep it aligned but for the mot part less is more. I found in this model which is challenging to say the least, if I had glued them in place I soule never have gotten a good fit on the hull scin. I was able to adjust each rib to align perfectly with the next panel.. I found that starting at the waterline and glueing that in place first then streching it over to center and around to the other waterline former worked best.

**Bionic Modeler** · #8 10-04-2012, 08:51 PM

I started by gluing colered strips to the rib formers. This is a necessity because you have 1mm of rib to glue two planks in a butt joint. Thal leaves you .5 mm for each. By gluing these strips in place you have more to work with. I printed a second sheet of planking and simply cut the strips fro that so I had a match. The planking starts with the front section. The forward and aft planks are cut into two parts, port and starboard. I don't know why that is they could easily have made them a single strip but whatever. I began by gluing the plank to the waterline former first. When secure I glued it and all subsequent planks to the formers and the keel, gently udjusting the waterline former until the piece met perfectly in the center at the keel. There is a small mark on the planking at center. This is why I don't glue formers in general. I have built a number of ships in the past and invariably something doesn't line up perfectly and you have to cut a former loose and readjust it. I did not color the edges, simply because I left the top off my red marker and it dried up. So I tried really hard to get a good joint so it wasn't obvious.

Apply glue all the way around the edge of each piece and adjust the formers to match as you go. When you get to the aft section everything should match up. It did. Cutting is extremely important if you cut even a little off the planks you will end up short when you get to the last pieces. So accuracy is key and don't leave any white either. I use a finger nail file to sand the edges straight if there is any variance.

Be careful to keep your fingers clean at all times. I apply the glue then clean my fingers first before I pick it up and place it. Aileen's is my preference because even if it leaks out at the joint and it usually does, you can gently roll it right off before it sets. That happens to me a lot and I have gotten pretty good at preventing those unsightly glue spots. There are a few here and there but over all I am satisfied.

Next I will work on the keel.

**Bionic Modeler** · #9 10-09-2012, 12:49 PM

I have had a major setback in my medical condition. So I will have to pick this up if I get better. Benn down for the last three days with no sign it is going to improve. I will be seeing a Neurologist soon to see if there is anything new they can do for me. The last time it got this bad I needed surgery just to make it 30% better. They tell me any more surgeries will only make it worse. I don't know how that is possible since it is pretty "worse" right now. So keep me in mind friends I will check back periodically. In anticipation of the logical next question, I have a severe case of "Pudendal Neuropothy". It hs disabled me for the last 8 yrs. Had bi-lateral surgery in 2005.