HG Watkins 1977 USS Tennessee - Page 2

**eibwarrior** · #11 01-06-2009, 01:02 PM

Thanks Don. Yeah, I'm not sure if Tenn or Calif could make it through the canal after the re-build. I always thought that they could, but I don't have evidence to back that up. Interesting question.

The Watkins Tenn build was educational work. I had never taken on what I would term a "craftsman" kit like that before. There are some lessons learned and things I would do differently now, although the results were still pretty good.

Good eye on the lower shelf! That is a Maly Modelarz HMS Rodney. An early '80's design if I remember correctly. It was my first full-hull build a few years ago. Another big learning experience, but still turned out pretty good. I plan to build the larger 1/200 GPM version some day soon.

**Papercut** · #12 01-06-2009, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golden Bear

Nothing wrong with printing on Bristol. It is a little on thick side compared to Staples, etc., card. It is much whiter which is nice. I was talking about laminating to get your thicknesses correct in my previous post. I'm a big fan of the two-layers-of-Bristol+overlay in order to get 1mm. It is very much part of my comfort zone. I use the Staples/Office Depot white (not particularly white if you ask me) for my normal parts. I use HP Bright White for small details.

For colors when you print your own parts there can be a lot of difficulties and I don't want to go into all of them right now. My job is to design printheads (pens) for THE major inkjet manufacturer - initials of the company are similar to IQ, heh. I have a lot of experience with inks, papers and print modes. Probably too much for most folks here since I can rant on and on.

Back to the point. When you print, make certain that you select the paper that you want to print on and the print mode each time. Many/most printers nowadays have some sort of sensor built in that guesses (they aren't particularly accurate) at the paper you have loaded and uses a DEFAULT - i.e. defined by a team of knowledgeable people and then screwed up by marketing and management a#$es - print mode. For example, I always set my paper to HP Bright White and my print mode to Best before printing. In this manner I can get my ordinary paper and card to come out to be the same color. Does this make any sense? If you want particular help then PM me with your email address.

You should be able to get the same color on every media that you use but you need to understand the foolishness that underlies the printer drivers.

BTW, I don't know why you quit on Dreadnought since I was enjoying the build and thought that you were doing well. OTOH, I don't see anything wrong with switching to something else in midstread - do it all the time myself.

Carl

Thanks so very much for the info. After reading, I went to advance printer options and found the locations for you recommendations before printing. The info on paper was a tutorial on the subject and one of the best tips I have seen so far, all I knew was card stock, cardboard and white paper. Now I have a knowledge to know the differences in the paper stacks at Office Depot! Your instructions were clear and to the point. I hate that the build on the Dreadnought was stopped, but I have learned what not to do and for all reading, I have at this time ordered a kit of the Dreadnought for a latter build. Lets hope I can get thru this one w/o a catastropy

. As always I look forward to any help Golden Bear you are willing to offer. Rick

**Papercut** · #13 01-06-2009, 08:12 PM

Printed and laid out. Bottom of waterline hull ready to glue to balsa. This will be the first time I have used balsa to build the frame work. I know I will have to adjust for thickness of balsa as I build. The balsa and hull bottom are attached to my steel building board I use to build balsa model airplanes with. Just like magnetic cut board, but just the metal for building on. Keeps everything nice and flat. I have not glued the hull bottom yet and to be sure I am using right thickness, what size balsa do you use, this is 1/16 which comes close to 3mm thickness.

**eibwarrior** · #14 01-07-2009, 07:57 AM

Good deal Rick. You're off and rolling.

I can't remember what size balsa I used, but it was strut material. I used the struts width-wise on the ship and length-wise as well. Just used my best judgement on what the deck would need to eliminate any sags or waves.

I've attached a shot here so you can see where the problematic areas of fit up are between the deck and hull sides. Look for the red circles. These areas were wider due to the formers that come with the kit than the width of the deck. You may want to cut out your forward deck and do some test fits to your formers before you begin hull sides installation. You can also see some of the balsa struts visible through the center of the deck here.

**looker** · #15 01-07-2009, 08:08 AM

If it helps, 1/16 " is 1.5875 (~1.6) mm, plus say 0.1 mm for the copy paper. Watching with interest.

**Michael Mash** · #16 01-07-2009, 11:39 AM

Good to see another project get going papercut. And looks like you have some help from a "veteran" of that particular kit. Looking forward to those images as she takes shape. Nothing like a new build to put the "old" build behind you.
Mike

**Papercut** · #17 01-08-2009, 07:53 PM

Help, I am glued to a stick of balsa:o, LOL, just wanted to drop a line to say gluing up frame work. Should be able to post a photo soon of a completed frame. I searched the threads to find the best way to laminate the card stock to balsa, discovered spray glue was not the best way to go. Followed another master builder's thread and spread white glue w/a piece of balsa and laid the card into, no bubbles or warps, which was what I was after. I am sure there maybe many other ways, but this worked the best f/me.

**papiro** · #18 01-09-2009, 05:04 AM

Hi, I´m here too!! :D
Just waiting for your advances, thanks for sharing. You and the other mates are a real source of informtion.
Saludazos.

**Michael Mash** · #19 01-09-2009, 06:41 AM

Looking forward to seeing that frame made from balsa. I usually make mine from 1/32" plywood.
Mike

**Papercut** · #20 01-12-2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael Mash

Looking forward to seeing that frame made from balsa. I usually make mine from 1/32" plywood.
Mike

No I have not fell overboard, I am almost finished with the balsa frame work, will post a photo when completed. I guess I have fell into the paper model syndrome, spending more time chasing down kits than building. Kinda reminds me of collecting comic books. So little time and I want them all!!!!!!!!