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  #21  
Old 01-25-2009, 07:18 AM
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treadhead1952 treadhead1952 is offline
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Ahoy Shipmates,

I have been having entirely too much fun hacking and whacking at the parts to get them to cooperate. I figured out that separating the horizontal long hull shape into its' three sections then spliting them into two sections each was the way to go about it. I notched out the mounting holes in the vertical section, split the individual bulkheads, notching the first 3 and got to see how this plan works out. To my surprise, it is beginning to look like it is supposed to. Tonight I will notch the remaining bulkheads and be able to assemble the inner hull form.

I am grateful to Michaels' suggestion, it helped to put me on the right track. It is also apparent to me that I should refrain from over test fitting the parts, the more you do so, the looser the fit becomes. I will have some photos later after I get the parts cut out and can assemble the first part of my Akizuki.

Jay Massey
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  #22  
Old 01-25-2009, 09:53 PM
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treadhead1952 treadhead1952 is offline
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Ahoy Shipmates,

I am beginning to figure out how it works! A Eureka moment for me.

After multiplying the number of parts by double by slicing them all up and then notching each of the smaller pieces up and the vertical form, I got to here in two evenings.



As a bonus to myself I went ahead and put it all together using some more of my Weldwood Contact Cement carefully applied with a toothpick so that each place that would touch on each part got a coating. Starting from the stern I started fitting it together. I will admit that I was somewhat dubious as to how this would actually work. I never figured I would actually produce something that looks sorta like I have seen in the shots on the threads I have been pouring over, but dang, it comes pretty close. I have a few places that I want to smooth over on the center of the deck surface yet but the bottom looks pretty happening sighting down the length of it. I will let it get a nights' rest and then do a little smoothing with some sandpaper so the deck has a nice flat to rest on at the rear of it. From Frame 13 forward, it actually looks like I won't have to do much of anything.

I am also very surprised at how stiff and sturdy the whole assemby is even with the glue not being totally set up yet.





Thanks to all the tips from ya'll as well as what I was able to pick up from the threads, I am starting to have some hope that I might actually make a model this way.

Jay Massey
treadhead1952
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  #23  
Old 01-26-2009, 07:01 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Akizuki begins to look like a ship!

Don
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2009, 03:14 PM
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Now the fun and sometimes frustrating part begins... Hull plating.

Keep on keepin' on treadhead. We've all been there and we can help if you need it!
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  #25  
Old 01-26-2009, 04:44 PM
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treadhead1952 treadhead1952 is offline
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Thanks Guys,

I very much appreciate the assistance and all the knowledge that is available here on the site. Not to mention all the great builds I keep gettin' sidetracked lookin' through! All of it is highly inspirational.

A sidenote, got my shipment from Paper Model Store today, the Kiji and the Mutsuki, two more answer Models in 1/200 scale, both look highly buildable and enjoyable, I can see that this is going to be too much fun. I also recieved a "bonus" that I was not even expecting, Krzysztof tossed in a copy of the USS Enterprise from Star Trek the Next Generation. Admitedly it is more designed for the younger set as an introductory type thing, but I thought it was nice of him. The next time one of my lady friends drops off one of their urchins for me to babysit, I got just the thing to occupy the little rug rat while I attend to more important matters, building my own models.

Back to matters at hand, it took a couple of times to get it right but I managed to make an acceptable copy of the deck parts using an 8 and 1/2 by 11 piece of card stock that I found at that well known french boutique, "Target". The single asterisk by the part numbers indicates that this is supposed to be bonded to a chunk of 0.5mm card before application. The cardstock in question came in a 100 sheet pack and is just a hair under the thickness of the original pages, something along the line of .002 less actually. After doing a bit of conversion work online, I have discovered that I can use a chunk of poster board that I have from work and come up with a .20 inch thick surface, close enough for government work and it will allow me to make the after deck section as one piece instead of two by bonding the two parts to one single bit of poster board material.

I have noticed that there doesn't seem to be any tabs or bonding surfaces other than simple butt joints to attatch the hull sides to the deck, would I be gaining anything by making tabs by cutting the parts out with a little overage on the edges and fashioning my own tabs out of it? I really dread the thought of not having enough gluing surface to make a nice tight fit of major parts to the model.

Also I obtained a tube of Sig-ment to try out for attaching parts. According to directions you are supposed to put some on each part to be bonded. let it sit for a couple minutes then hit it with a second coat and then join the parts. It is supposed to be used for making the flying type model airplanes, anyone have any experience or suggestions as to something other than my can of Contact Cement? While it did do a bang up job putting my inner hull together, I can see where it might be a bit more difficult to use to attach the colored parts of the model, not impossible, but a bit messy. I also realize that glues are somewhat of a personal preference thing but not ever making a card model before, I am open to suggestions.

Jay Massey
treadhead1952
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  #26  
Old 01-26-2009, 05:18 PM
GreMir GreMir is offline
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Adding tabs is fine, as long as you make sure that they do not stick out beyond the deck. If they do, even a tiny bit, ovwerall length of the gluing surface will be greater than the hull side and you will end up with a gap...

As for the glue - I recently discovered Beacon's 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue (if you have JoAnn Fabric and Craft they carry it, otherwise try looking in others of the type). Stong bond, clear, smells just a bit and grabs fast but with time to adjust.
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  #27  
Old 01-26-2009, 06:41 PM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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That hull frame looks like the real thing. Not bad for your first one. As long as its all straight, everything should match up pretty well. Looking forward to more.
Mike
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  #28  
Old 01-26-2009, 08:55 PM
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Thanks Michael and Mike,

I appreciate the information on the tabs. I did add some around the perimeter of the after deck and made sure to put them in places out of the way of the bulkhead forms so I should be able to fold them under to avoid any increase in the length of the hull, just give a little extra gluing space. With my card thickness and the poster board thickness joined together and trimmed out, I am at .25" in thickness which is pretty close to what .5mm and the thickness of the original page material would be so I am pretty happy with that number. I want to trim out the forward deck, add its' tabs and then I can glue it and a bit of poster board together. Once I have both decks set up and trimmed I am going to put a few "L" shaped brackets on the bulkhead formers along either side of the center horizontal piece for gluing area and then join it all together. Perhaps it may be a bit of overkill as far as strength goes, but this is my first one and I would hate to have it start coming unglued for any reason before I get it done.

Once I get there I will take a couple shots to let you see what all my babbling has been about then turn my attentions to the hull bottom plates. No where in the instructions does it say this, but I noticed in a couple of different threads that there are a number of narrow pieces of hull bottom colored material that have been added to the bottom of the bulkhead forms before they added the outer hull plates. I noticed in the colored pages on the bottom plate page there is a section of long strips that would seem to be just for that or am I missing the boat here? It would seem to make sense, sort of allow for a little gapage in mis-cutting with the same color underneath to hide that sort of thing as well as offer greater area for glue.

Michael(GreMir), I had a chance to check out your site and was interested in the IJN Nagatsuki, the HMS Onslow, and the HMS Badsworth; are there any advantages to having the CD over just downloading the whole thing? I have a Paypal account, I would have to add some funds the next time the eagle flys, but that isn't a big deal if you would prefer that sort of remittance.

Oh yeah and thanks for the tip on the Beacons' 3 in 1, I will have to see if Las Vegas sports a JoAnn's and check it out.

Jay Massey
treadhead1952
Las Vegas, NV
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  #29  
Old 01-26-2009, 09:09 PM
GreMir GreMir is offline
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I don't have the kit but if you found narrow strips in the same color as the bottom hull then those should be glued to the bulkheads to give some more glueing surface for the bottom plates. They should be numbered either corresponding to the formers or bottom hull plates...

As for download v. CD - it's exactly the same thing except that if somebody has a slow connection then CD might be a better option since files are rather large.
One more thing...
Nagatsuki is exactly the same kit as Mutsuki, except for the ships name on the hull
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  #30  
Old 01-26-2009, 09:27 PM
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treadhead1952 treadhead1952 is offline
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Thanks Michael,

That's sorta what I thought, not being able to read Polish has its' drawbacks. In the case of numbering, they are just sort of sitting there all lonesome like, I suppose answer figures you are supposed to know what they are for.

Gee, man, shouldn't have told me that about the Mutsuki, now I will have to pick something else out, lol. While I do have broadband, I will probably order the CDs, nice to have a hard copy in case the old hard drive takes a nose dive. With Income Tax return time coming up, I can forsee more than a few things in the cardmodel line coming in.

Jay Massey
treadhead1952
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