#31
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#32
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Jay,
Save on shiping, you can burn the CD yourself :D
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Constructive criticism of my builds is welcome - if I messed up and allowed others to see it, I certainly deserve it Michael Krol |
#33
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Thanks Don and Michael,
Don, I checked out tincans' thread, one of the reasons I thought about the Nagatsuki, looking at the Mutsuki kit a little closer, I can see all I have to do is follow along to see how it goes. I like the idea of larger scale models of smaller ships, being able to add a lot more detailing to show just what they carried in the way of weapons and gear, the only limitation being storage room for completed projects, may have to move to a larger place. :D Well, off to the salt mines for me, one more day after this one and I get some time off to devote to the Akizuki. I have been checking out the hull bottom plating and it looks like the best thing is to start at either end and work towards the middle, the end pieces being the hardest to fit in terms of fiddle work. I can also see that I will have to build the base for the kit soon, gotta have someplace to set it, especially since adding the rudder and props will negate setting it down on the bench. Jay Massey treadhead1952 Las Vegas, NV |
#34
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Yers, do the middle last, easier to fix any gaps. But be really sure that frame is straight and level and not twisted. Also consider whether you want to install the decks prior to the upper side plating. I know Carl likes to add the deck last, but for your first time it may be better to add the deck first, see above comment about straight and level. The basic rule is to add parts in parts number sequence. Good luck with it.
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Fred Bultman |
#35
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Hi Fred,
From looking over the other threads I sort of picked up on adding the decks once the frames are together. I checked the whole thing for straight in two planes and surprisingly, especially for me, it is. At this point my biggest concern is that one of the formers may be out too far and will make a bulge in the plating. Using the Mark One Eyeball and sighting down various axis' with a strong light behind things, I haven't noticed any shadows or dips popping out to catch my eye. I did straighten out a small wave in the center spine of the horizontal upright, it was actually not trimming close enough to the line at one point and the bulkhead former where it was showed it quite nicely. After letting things set up a day and then sanding with a block, things look pretty straight again. With any luck, I should have enough time after my day at the salt mines to finish the forward deck and get both of them mounted for a picture or two. I am actually looking forward to plating the hull, it should be an exercise in fiddly work, one of my favorite things to do in model making. Jay Massey treadhead1952 Las Vegas, NV |
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#36
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Dont hesitate to go at it with some medium grit sandpaper...or lay in some paper if it is a dip.
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Fred Bultman |
#37
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Greatest thing for that is a professional manicurist's emery board. I get mine at Sally Beauty Supply (I have teenage daughter units too) for about $1 or less each. They are available with washable sandpaper in various grits, and the best thing I've found for fairing structures true, or turning card wheels on the Dremel.
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I'm not making it up as I go along, I'm establishing precedent |
#38
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Thanks for the tips guys, I have more than a few sanding boards in my collection of tools, hardwood and nylon spreader types so that I can have various grits set up and ready to go. The one I used for this task was set up with some 220 grit and made quick work of smoothing over the high spot. Being a former body and fender guy from way back, getting things straight was almost a must for this project, don't want any humps and bumps to have to overcome.
I noticed in one group of the hull bottom colored strips they have one that is about 1/8th inch wide, I suppose it is for patching any discrepancies once you get started adding the hull plates, I will try my best to make sure that one gets unused. :D Time to hose off the days' labors and then turn my attentions to the more important work of the day, modeling. Jay Massey treadhead1952 Las Vegas, NV |
#39
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Not familiar with this kit, but they sound like joining strips to me, used to form a joint like the bad ASCII art to follow
hull plate___________________ _____________________hull plate
______________joining strip II II former
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I'm not making it up as I go along, I'm establishing precedent |
#40
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I'm looking at the kit now. I'm pretty sure they are joining strips. Probably glue those on top of your formers before you put on the hull plates. I had to make my own for Isuzu.
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Jim |
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