JAHRE Viking 1:400

[jimbean]

Hello friends,
I have been absent for awile, lurking but not building.
Just started this unusual waterline model. It will be very long and wide but not tall.
It must be that the ship is mostly below the surface.
There are 5 of the 7 hull frames shown.
The frame construction is different but seems to be effective.
Note the gaps between the sections. This is anticipated in the instructions as they say if
the frame is longer than the skin to just cut a piece out of it.
That solution looks difficult to me, considering the corrugations and all. I am going to try to
get a measurement of the skin and shorten the last frame piece before assembling it.
Maybe it will work
regards Jim

[Hi-Torque]

Hi Jim,

I wish you luck on your keel laying! I know I have seen several build reports on this vessel (in other forums). If I run across one I will post a link for you.

And yes your very much correct, the JAHRE VIKING ex KNOCK NEVIS, ex SEAWISE GIANT was like an iceburg.

I recently saw a 1:250 kit of this ship (probably Scaldis as they also did a 1:250
version of JSC's BREDFORD DOLPHIN) nearly 3/4" thick kit and 6 ft long completed.

Kind Regards,

Cris

[herky]

looks good. i have hmv sea trout waiting for me to get brave enough to start it.looks a fearsome kit

[jimbean]

hi all and thanks for the replies.

A little more progress.
I added some card to the frames, mainly to try to keep the corners square.

The fifth image shows the creep of the frames getting too long. The end of the skin is
supposed to be in the middle of the red squares but it is at the front.

I will finish the last (seventh) frame with its skin and use the remaining skins as a measure
to shorten the sixth frame before bending in the corrugations.

The remaining images show the skins. The corrugated frames seem to give the skins a
lumpy appearance. I don't know that a more conventional frame style would have been
any better.

regards Jim

[jimbean]

hi all, more on the monster model.

In photos 2 and 3 is the stern section with skin on.

In photos 4,5 and 6 I have laid out the skins in place and measuring the space remaining
for the last frame, it measures about a mm too short. IE the other frames have grown by
a mm. The plan now is to cut a mm off the last frame and then bend in the corrugations.
Then attach the skins to the existing frames and to each other. Then place the last
frame in the space and attach the end pieces.

This is going to be interesting. More in 2 weeks
regards Jim Bean

[jimkrauzlis]

This is an impressive monster of a build...at 1/400 scale!!

I am looking forward to seeing your solution to the length problem, and wish you all the best of luck in solving it...no matter what, this is a wonderful build thus far!

Cheers!
Jim

[jimbean]

thanks Jim, here it is.

There are 7 frames under the deck. The deck pieces are designed to span the frames with half on each frame. The sixth frame is basically straight so I chose it to shorten.
The deck pieces were glued to the fifth and last frame and then joined with strips as in the pictures. The centre piece was added to the sixth frame to get the folds under control, then the sixth frame was dropped into place. It is a loose fit but this doesn't matter since the end pieces are then put at the ends and take up the slack.
The hull is now complete and the deck pieces are next.
More in a couple weeks Jim

[didibuch]

That's an interesting build. You master the challenge of size very good.

Greetings
Dieter

[Kevin WS]

You are reinforcing with balsa?

[jimbean]

Thank you both for the replies. The construction method is strange but seems to be effective. My only criticism is that the corrugations cause the deck to have grooves.
I think that if I was doing it again I would put a sheet of thin card between the deck and the frames.
The grey pieces are 0.5 mm card not balsa. I just used them to make sure the corners of the frames stayed square. Probably unnecessary.
regards Jim Bean