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  #11  
Old 03-15-2009, 09:24 PM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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thank you, was the answer i been needing
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2009, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikkievix View Post
well i'm still needing to know....are they rolled in to tubes or just laid in. oh and $15 for a 3 pack of illustration board >.< yikes!!!
Yeah, know what you mean.

Don't want to date myself, but when in school, a good 20x30 Bainbridge was $1.15 and a beautiful Strathmore was $1.75.

Did you get it a Staples (or like store)? Their prices are outrageous.

Looking forward to this build.
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2009, 04:53 PM
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:oOops, after rereading the question, yes indeed they are hawsepipes and not the chainplates, I was working on itty bitty parts and got carried away, sorry Ron, you were right on the money.
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  #14  
Old 03-16-2009, 06:04 PM
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heh, i got the board at officedepot and gonna make a run back out today or to the craft store to find a pen that matches the red..the dark grey i can fake with black (since that used most if not all of my cartridge) and the light grey....eh.....paper color. but sad news is the model will be painfuly slow going and no pix due to lack of camera and finaly after a month with out work.......lovely desk job perfect for my fat butt
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  #15  
Old 03-26-2009, 04:14 PM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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ok, little update and gonna have to use your imagination since i'm still without camera.... the hull is framed up and about 70% skinned, was a little to late to use an idea i saw on the kartonbau forum with the repulses skins needing alot more support...the edges of the belly plates are supported with 1/8x12 inch balsa as with the decks. the side skins and torpedo armor skins are supported with 1/8x1/8 balsa stick. the very last stern waterline skin is about 4mm to short so had to fill that with a piece cut off the simple bow skin, the anchor chain tubes are a challenge but found if i roll them over dowel and then push them in and glue and make some minor repairs, they come out ok. the damage caused by my self only adds to the realisim of a warship hopefuly i'll be able to take some pix soon.
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  #16  
Old 03-26-2009, 05:49 PM
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Sounds like you are making good progress. I look forward to seeing pictures.
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  #17  
Old 03-26-2009, 06:40 PM
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Hi Nikki,

Now that I am a proud owner of one of Micheals' HMS Repulse kits, I can indeed envision your handiwork.:D

The first thing that impressed me was the size of this beastie, almost 4 feet long! I was thinking of rebar instead of balsa wood to reinforce this bad boy. I will have to look up the build thread on the German forum to see what I can pick up there. I will also be watching when I go to skin the hull since you had a little shortage there.

Looking forward to your updates.
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  #18  
Old 03-27-2009, 01:34 AM
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well the shortage was just since many of the skins don't line up on the frames so cut the joiner strips extra wide, also need to point out that there is no markings on where to put the exits for the prop shafts and als...useing small aluminum tube for the shafts.
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  #19  
Old 03-27-2009, 10:33 AM
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Hi Nikki,

Sounds like a good idea for the prop shafts, not being a slave to using only paper for a paper model myself, I am always looking for ways to get things done in a more expedient manner.

I printed out all 52 sheets for the model itself and was amazed at all the parts and level of detail that this one will present. I am planning on ordering up a whole bunch of PE railing sets from the Hobby Model site in Poland to cover the acres of deck that require them. It looks like it will take about three of them just to cover the requirements for my little PC 553 subchaser project and it is only 10 and 1/4 inches long!
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2009, 12:12 AM
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actualy for the railings i'm going ultra cheap as in no money spent.. i downloaded the railing and ladder template from paper shipwright and rescaled it to the 1:200 scale from 1:250th, i forget the percentage used but the railings needed to be 4mm high and the 1:250th is 3mm high.
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