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  #21  
Old 04-03-2009, 05:26 PM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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well seems the thread may have died but i'll still post updates... ok....hull fully skinned and mounted the inboard prop shafts and supports..working on the outboard ones now, then assemble the rudder and mix up some paint to paint the underwater part due to tomany tiny finger prints *wiggles her almost child like fingers* and many glue marks and ares where i used superglue to either close a gap or glue a high stress skin down or to simble make my self one with the ship..... umm...any one else who does decide to build this....do get the aluminum tube!! great metalic look for the stainless steel shafts and semi cheap to and goes by quicker
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  #22  
Old 04-03-2009, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikkievix View Post
many glue marks and ares where i used superglue to either close a gap or glue a high stress skin down or to simble make my self one with the ship..... umm...any one else who does decide to build this....do get the aluminum tube!! great metalic look for the stainless steel shafts and semi cheap to and goes by quicker

Hi Nikkie,

:D:D:D

Yes, I think we have all tried to make ourselves "one with the ship" using superglue as the agent of bonding.

I have a pretty good selection of aluminum tube and rod to tinker with when it comes time to do the deed for this beastie, not to mention brass, styrene and whatever else it might take.

I did find a brass barrel set from Hobby Model in Poland that I ordered to make things easier in that respect as well as stock up on some PE railings and other little bits to help out.

I am looking forward to getting around to this one so I can try out working on that hull. As big as she is in 1/200 it should be a good workout. I crack up looking at the sheets with just three bulkheads fitting on a single page for a couple of them.

Hope you get a camera soon so you can show off your handiwork.
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  #23  
Old 04-05-2009, 02:22 PM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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ok, i tried about 10 times to make my own railing with thread...used cotton thread and it kept coming apart when glued with thinned weldbond...so........i need some place that takes paypal so i can get some of drafmodels lovely laser cut railing and ladders. papermodel store has it but none of the straight stuff, the straightest they have is 30 degree and i need fully upright.
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  #24  
Old 04-05-2009, 03:15 PM
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I always use silk thread and CA when making my own railings. I'm going to try some monofilament on my next build.
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  #25  
Old 04-05-2009, 05:21 PM
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Hi Nikki,

I have ordered a few PE rails sets from the Hobby Model store in Poland, while it does take a while to get to you, about two weeks, he does have them in stock. And Pay Pal is one of his payment options.
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  #26  
Old 04-05-2009, 06:27 PM
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Darwin Darwin is offline
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Nikki, you might consider the cheat I use. Print railings out on inkjet transparency film, cut them out, and glue in place with thin formula CA. From a normal viewing distance, it looks like laser-cut card or photoetch.
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  #27  
Old 04-07-2009, 08:34 AM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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ok..repulse is on hold while i see if i can quickly start and finish the HMS badsworth also from gremir... looks to be a simple kit with a relitivly low parts count compaired to the HMS savage kit.
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  #28  
Old 04-11-2009, 12:46 AM
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Hello Nikkievix, I have followed your thread and thought I would offer a little help> some times it is good to step away from a project and decide what you need to do to continue or as you have stated, start something a little less demanding. I will be the 1st to say to build this monster of the Phantom Ship, HMS Repulse is daunting for any modeler. I have started several and 1/2 way thru decided I was not getting anywhere, case in point, I started a post building the IJN Tone, got the frame laminated and mocked up. As far as I want too go with right now, pulled out another kit, USS Indianapolis and will have deck/hull sides on this weekend. Why did I get so much further along on this one, the build is easier and I am interested in the ship, which I find is a big help to finish one. So may I say, start the other one, take what you have learned and build. When you are ready, return to the Repulse. And after following your thread, I have looked at this kit numerous times, I ordered and as soon as Pay-Pal completes, I will have this for my collection. I plain to build, but I will build as a waterline 1st. I have found that I tend to finish more ships building waterline vs full hull! Don't get me wrong, I like the full hull build, but I do not like the head aches I get trying to get that smooth hull????. And we like to see what you are doing, check around, digital cameras have come down in price. Anyhow, good building on your next project.:DRick
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  #29  
Old 04-11-2009, 07:25 AM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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well the one digital camera i did look in to is a friends old oe...a kodak DC215 in the platinum finish, its dubbed by both of us as the electronic imaging brick of pain since there is a dent on the aluminum body from where we where messing around when he first got it in 1997 and it sorta met my head, still got the dent in my skull from that only thing thats wrong with it is that it eats batteries like i eat beanut butter cups (nummy) and the zoom switch (where the dent partialy is) has broken off the axle and we both have tried fixing it and the largest card either of us can afford is still the 16mb card thats in it. little update tho on the basdworth.... hull is skinned tho the aft deck seems to be 2mm to long for the frame so have to stress the aft skins down and i recomend putting the 2 bow skins on (not the waterline skins, the main hull skins) then take the joining strip for the aft skins, join them together and let dry, center them and glue to the very stern first and let dry over night, curve around and glue down to bulkhead 2, let dry over night and repeat to the end. umm...the side frame pieces that are in the kit are sunk in slightly so use strips of scrap cardstock to fill in the gap to make glueing easier and there will be gaps between the fore and aft skins but they're not to badly noticeable. overall it seems to be easy, got 2 of the stair ways installed and working on fitting out the aft deck and gonna move aft then forward. on many of the structure boxes....just toss the tabs and glue directly to the deck...seems to work for me. anyhoo...breakfast time then gotta take a shower, kinda got a funk >.< also......gonna post an introdcution about my self before i log off (finaly) and get to see the face behind the vix *point to avitar that screams, OMG!! ITS A FURRY!!! and hides her fluffy vixen tail*
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  #30  
Old 04-13-2009, 08:27 PM
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nikkievix nikkievix is offline
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ok, good news and bad news...good news.......i may soon have alot of time to work on models..bad news......issues with my comps hardware are growing worse each day. this afternoon i had to remove my 1gb stick of ram and install my only spare stick which brings my total to 512mb. my DVD rom drive has died, still can't find my e-machines restore CD's, and a whole host of other problems that seem to be originating from the cheap motherboard. so while i shop for comp parts i also been printing out some models, backing up as much stuff as i can on to my other hard drives and prepping for the day when i turn on my comp and see nothing. pretty much the worst problems are the comp will randomly reboot and this morning i woke up, got coffee and breakfast and came back 15 minutes later to still see the windows load screen then feww second slater it restarted, well loaded halfway and then a quick flash of a blue screen. did this about 10 times then caught a glimps of the screen and looked to be bad memory in slot 1 since the ram adress was all 0's and the dvd drive light was lfickering like it was reading data but there was no disk in the drive...odd. so any way to sum things up, i'll be offline when this thing dies for a good while unless i can find the boxed copy of XP to put on to my zombie comp in the living room, runs just needs an OS.
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