#11
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I am glad to see this thread underway, John. You are in a class by yourself as a model builder, and your Kongo will, I am sure, be a superb model.
I find that I learn a lot more about how a ship was put together by watching a paper model under construction than I can from drawings and photograph images (although those are always most welcome as well). Don |
#12
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I really need to have you give me some hull making lessons!
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#13
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This is going to be really nice
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#14
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Yesterday I painted the hull with the first layer, here some pictures ! In the first two pictures is the plating clearly visible, before painting, the last two after the first layer ! I also already put in some sea chests (cooling water in-& outs) in the underwater ship, but there are coming in more !!
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#15
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Here a comparison between the real and my hull Not exactly the same angle, but still I also have some glare on the hull
John. |
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#16
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Your technique for hull plating is masterful.
I just finished looking through some of your other build reports. And the style of hull building is consistent. It is so attractive, I might attempt a "JohnMGD style" hull when my current project is finished. Do you have any tips or advice for me? Thanks, Mike Last edited by Michael Mash; 06-29-2016 at 10:49 AM. Reason: Add more to the comments |
#17
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Mike,
Sure, but when you are a card model "purist", you have a problem In the beginning, my first models frames were made out of card board. But the quality was not satisfying me. I like to build a more "sophisticated" hull with tight and straight lines, which I not could achieve with card board, so my frames are made of MDF and the first hull layer is made of balsa wood, the rest of the ship is, of course, card board and paper. The thickness of the MDF is 4mm and of the balsa wood, 1,5mm. The balsa wood is cut in stripes of 5mm wide and glued on the frames and against each other, this way you get a nice, smooth and straight and sturdy hull. When the hull is completely sanded smooth, most of the time priming the hull is not necessary, the hull plates are put on, depending on how long the original hull plates are, they are cut to scale and glued onto the first hull. As I maybe mentioned before I use a kind of Art paper, found in arts & crafts stores, which is full coloured through and through, so no side colouring necessary. But I will paint the whole model anyway, with an on color made Acrylic paint, from a good brand (made by AKZO). This art paper has a nice thickness to build the rest of the ship, such as deck houses, bridges etc. The way the hull plates are arranged is taken from old books from that time (1900-1930's) and from what I can see on photographs of the ship in question. I also, always try to build in the in- and outlets of the cooling/feeding water of the Turbines and boilers, which can be found on drawings of the ships. Also th form of these openings differ from ship to ship, but its one picture of such an opening from the ship is enough to figure out the rest, square, oval or round. The final step is to paint the second layer of paint, grey above water- and a terracotta color for under the waterline. I started this kind of hull build with my ASHIGARA model, and now I have already several MDF hulls ready of several ship, such as ASAMA MARU and KOTETSU. Hope this helps a bit in your coming projects. John. |
#18
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I am taking notes.
Thanks so much John. This is all very helpful. It will be a while before I get to my next project, but employing some of your techniques should be new and exciting. Mike |
#19
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Right now I have a little lack of time, with my wife being away for a week, I have to look after the animals, but luckily she will be home again today and work will go on, I did just some minor detail on the underwater hull of KONGO, but photographs will follow soon
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#20
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Here some progression in my KONGO build:
The "Breezing" holes of KONGO are clearly visible, before painting, Portholes have still to be detailed !! Last edited by JohnMGD; 07-08-2016 at 10:59 AM. |
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