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  #31  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:43 AM
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abhovi abhovi is offline
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Perhaps one good tip for you, talking of books: try to get John Harland's Seamanship in the Age of Sail. Every handling of a sailing ship is described there in detail. Expensive perhaps, but top class!
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  #32  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:56 AM
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abhovi abhovi is offline
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One point of criticism on your model if you allow me: you made nail heads on the outside planking, suggesting 11 or 12 frames. In reality there were about 60-70 frames in a vessel like this. You better not suggest frames by making nail heads. On the decks, nail heads are OK, indicating deck beams, with spaces of about 1 meter apart, but on the outside planking they do not look very realistic. Better avoid them.
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  #33  
Old 04-22-2016, 04:19 AM
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Seahorse Seahorse is offline
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Well, nail heads are my mistake. Because parts were printed "ready in colour" I was afraid, that more nail heads will change her into a "ladybird". Now I see that there could be much more small dots (not small circles) on sides. 60 frames mean dots every ~3,5 mm.
Thank you for the valuable remark
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  #34  
Old 05-04-2016, 11:21 AM
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Hi,
I placed anchors (thank you abhovi)and began to make a mast and standing rigging.


As always, first I prepare and attach all equipement (blocks, lines) and when it is ready I place the mast to the deck.

Back stays:


Stays:

And a general view today:



Tomek
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  #35  
Old 05-05-2016, 07:08 AM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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Hello Tomek,
Your ship is a treasure.
That is wonderful rigging detail.
Mike
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  #36  
Old 05-05-2016, 08:26 AM
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abhovi abhovi is offline
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Indeed, but I'm afraid you will have to change the location of the pivot point of your leeboards. It is in the side of the ship above deck. Something like this:

Grosse Jacht - Brandenburgische Flotte-dsc01802-large-.jpg
This is a model I made 35 years ago in wood.:-)
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  #37  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:32 AM
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Mike - thanks for your warm words. There should be some hooks in many places, but I'm not good enough at "micro-blacksmithing" to try to make them. So lines are attached without any hooks only.
abhovi - your remarks are priceless. As I can see on your beautiful model the pivot point should be lower, but still above the deck? It is not symmetrically on leeboards, because I noticed such a position on many plans, paintings and sketches. Is it OK?
Fantastic yacht! Fantastic paintings on the leeboards! What is her name?

Tomek
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  #38  
Old 05-05-2016, 10:53 AM
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tatasam tatasam is offline
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Hi Tomek
I found something similar, it can be helpful.
Leeboard Yacht
Nice work !

Henryk
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  #39  
Old 05-05-2016, 11:52 AM
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abhovi abhovi is offline
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As you noticed the axel is out of the center of the leeboard. The biggest part is on top. In the bulwark is a thicker section, in which a hole is drilled just above deck level, through which the pin goes, which is stopped by a linchpin.

The yacht on the picture has no name. I used an old lines plan and 'invented' the layout and decorations. Not flawless, but in those days to my satisfaction. The painting on the leeboard was done by my father who was an artist. That's the reason I never sold it.
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  #40  
Old 05-05-2016, 12:52 PM
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abhovi - thank you for explanations. So I've made two mistakes: 1. all should be lower in such a way that the axel position is just above the deck line; 2. there should be a visible pin inside the bulwark.
I'm affraid, I will not rearrange the leeboards position as I don't want to damage the model and because the rigging is secured with CA:-(((. I could add "not real" pins inside the bulwarks, but they will be higher than they should be or they will not agree with axels on the leeboards.
Well, now I don't know how to correct these mistakes.

Tomek
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