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#32
04-01-2017, 06:56 PM
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Still looks really good Jim. Did you actually cut out the ventilation holes in the grates? I'm assuming you did, so wow!
__________________
This is a great hobby for the retiree - interesting, time-consuming, rewarding - and about as inexpensive a hobby as you can find. Shamelessly stolen from a post by rockpaperscissor 
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#34
04-07-2017, 01:30 AM
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Jim, very interested in your progress. I am building the sloop HMS Wolf at 1:96. I am using a hybrid technique with the hull in that I have added 3mm balsawood extensions to each side of all the bulkheads to give the vertical skin pieces a decent landing thus avoiding the hard edges that show up when you put the planking on. If you are building another model it is worth considering. It does take time!
Bonetta.
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#37
06-12-2017, 08:48 PM
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Some progress, the deck is complete and the stub masts.
I don/t plan to rig this model because of the deadeyes. The period deadeyes look like a major pain in the neck to fabricate and I can't force myself to use the wrong ones. So this model is more or less complete. cheers Jim
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#39
06-21-2017, 01:40 AM
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Perhaps this will help you to add deadeyes to your model.
I use a punch, but there are also tongs for cutting round holes in leather belts. Anyway, this deadeye is 3,5 mm. I first make the inside with cardboard used for framing artwork, 1,2 mm thick and another kind 0,5 mm thick for the outsides, which are cut a little bit bigger than the centre one. I use white glue to put them together and roll them between my fingers, until the centre one is indeed in the centre, while I keep squeezing it with a pair of tweezers.    Next I dip the deadeye in acrylic varnish for some time and let it dry well. With a sharp tool I press holes where I want them and use an electric drill next. With a pair of pliers I flatten the material, because it has a tendency to delaminate during drilling (but not as much if I had not used the acrylic varnish).    A thin wire is mounted around the deadeye and because of the larger outsides it won't come off unintentionally. The twisted part of the wire will disappear in the channel. The end is bend with pliers and inserted into a previously drilled hole in the hull. If you want a chain with long links, place a mould (for instance a piece of metal) between the two ends of the wire and bend them for the second time, leaving one end to insert into the ship's side and the other to cut off. A drop of super glue fixes it. I never saw one come loose. I hope this helps.
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#40
06-21-2017, 02:07 AM
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Congratulations on your build Jimbean!
Rigging can be another story. I've been doing some work to help out Ages of Sail, which is an online distributor and shop that now carries most Shipyard kits and the sail and masting sets, but not the blocks yet. One thing I just finished was an update of the listings for the Quay Port kits, a model at that stage of construction would be a perfect subject in a quay port, as the ship appears still under construction. Just a thought. Abhovi, Interesting technique you have there. Glad you shared it! Clare
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