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  #31  
Old 09-22-2017, 05:54 PM
MrConk MrConk is offline
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I am curious as to what the tool is that is supporting the hull.
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  #32  
Old 09-22-2017, 07:26 PM
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[QUOTE=MrConk;596443]
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  #33  
Old 09-22-2017, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrConk View Post
I am curious as to what the tool is that is supporting the hull.
It is a Amati Keel Clamp. I also build wood ships and the clamp pulls double duty. Is a bit pricey, but a valuable tool for building straight hulls. Hope this answers your question.
Rick
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  #34  
Old 09-23-2017, 03:19 PM
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Boy, still fiddling with the frame. But lessons learned from past builds are paying dividends.
I have approached this one with those lessons and my past experiences building plank on frame kits. As was pointed out the frames do not match up too the 2 middle keel frame braces. So a old ship builders trick was employed of adding a fill strip. 1st lesson learned on the French Lugger, I sanded the up right frames to match and altered the shape and size of that 1st Shipyard kit. So ergo, straight edge and knife, cut step off the side of the sheet
these Parts came from. Ran strip down the offending piece, let the glue set. Then applied thin CA to stiffen. This allows for the strip to be sanded during the fairing process.
Also, from same 1st build, the card, reminds me of a beer mat, does not sand too well.
So, a small bottle of thin CA was applied to the frame all over. This stiffens and allows for better and precise sanding. 3rd lesson, the areas where mast are stepped, got a double dose of CA. This becomes apparent once you start putting tension on the mast during rigging. Will test fit the lower mast and ensure the hole/angle is correct before placing the deck onto the frame. Have spent most of the day just working on this.
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1/72 Shipyard Schooner Berbice 1780-img_0072.jpg   1/72 Shipyard Schooner Berbice 1780-img_0074.jpg  
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  #35  
Old 09-24-2017, 12:51 AM
Holzwurm Holzwurm is offline
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Quote:
3rd lesson, the areas where mast are stepped, got a double dose of CA. This becomes apparent once you start putting tension on the mast during rigging.
Thanks for the hint. I have to check this also for my build
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  #36  
Old 10-01-2017, 11:48 PM
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catopower catopower is offline
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Hi Rick,

I haven't been on the site for a while, but I'm really glad to see you're still at it.

Using CA to strengthen the paper is a great idea. I use thin CA myself as I like the way it wicks into the paper and doesn't sit on the surface at all. But, there are definitely places where you don't want that happening.

I've only build the HMS Alert and started the HMS Mercury in 1/96 scale, which are printed paper models. I've been wanting to do one of the laser cut kits like this. I like that you have more control over the look of the ship as you have to do the painting yourself and, like you pointed out, the color scheme of Berbice is not what the kit says.

One thing I found with the frames is that you don't actually have to worry about the horizontal stiffener not being up against the edge of the bulkheads. But it really matters if it sticks out any as it can easily create a bulge that you can't easily get rid of, and it effectively widens the area of the hull, which means the planking layer won't fully cover it.

Just wanted to warn you since you added that extra strip. I know you'll sand it down, but I recently saw where the stiffener stuck out on another builder's model and ever step to adjust kind of made things worse. So, just wanted to mention it.

I already have too many projects at the moment, but between this and another builder's 1/72-scale Papegojan project, I'm feeling the pull to try one of these!

By the way, I used the keel clamper with my builds too. After the framing, I drilled holes in the keel for a couple brass rods, which would then get clamped into the Keel Clamper. Keeps the pressure off the actual keel.

If you have a chance, I'd suggest thinking about how you're going to mount the model before you skin it. Just a thought. If I were to go back and do my Alert over again, I would have glued in either thick cardboard onto the central frame or wooden blocks to take the sideways pressure of mounting rods or screws.

Looking forward to more posts!

Clare
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  #37  
Old 10-04-2017, 07:07 PM
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Thanks for the heads up Clare. I worked for 1/2 a day sanding that little strip down until
it was flush. After the much required sanding and keeping the correct profile, I dare say I shall forgo the other side. I only now have started the fairing of the frame. I had thought of using fine flowerist foam to fill the spaces between the ribs. Now I am experimenting with coating the 1st paper skin with CA to stiffen and not collapse upon the 2nd application of hull cover!
That's the idea anyway? Looking forward to your Mercury.
And funny you bring up method of mounting. Point made and taken.
Hope to post progress photos this weekend.
Until... Cheers, keep advising and be of good health my friend.
Rick
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  #38  
Old 10-04-2017, 11:35 PM
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THE DC THE DC is offline
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I appreciate the care and detail of this build thread.

Nice subject chosen too.
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  #39  
Old 10-31-2017, 02:03 PM
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Hello friends, ,I have not posted any progress for awhile. Retired this past Friday, so should be posting a update soon.
Rick��
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  #40  
Old 10-31-2017, 03:10 PM
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Texman Texman is offline
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Congratulations on your retirement!
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