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  #21  
Old 02-28-2017, 11:33 PM
missileer missileer is offline
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You did a magnificent job of squaring the bulkheads and formers. The hull should really look clean after all that work.
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  #22  
Old 03-01-2017, 07:33 AM
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CMDRTED CMDRTED is offline
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try roman's recommended skinning sequence first, (in the instructions) if not clear one proven strategy is work from both ends towards the middle . that way you have alignment at bow and stern and any overlap can be trimmed from the middle sections. if you start at bow or stern and work forward, or aft, sometimes the overlap at the end doesn't quite line up right.
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  #23  
Old 03-01-2017, 07:35 AM
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CMDRTED CMDRTED is offline
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Oh and as a rule not all the frame sections need glue on them, that leads to the eggcrate look when glue dries or temp/humidity changes.
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  #24  
Old 03-01-2017, 08:45 AM
R0t0rh34d R0t0rh34d is offline
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Missilery, thanks and I hope so!

CMDRTED, thanks, I'll check romans tut, and I'll watch glueing, appreciate the tips!
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  #25  
Old 03-02-2017, 12:03 AM
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Jim Nunn Jim Nunn is offline
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Very nice workmanship on the hull.

On skinning the hull I would follow Romans instructions. I'm building his Fletcher model and decided to "do it my way" which is to start at the bow and work aft. Roman's instruction stated to start at the stern and work forward. I ended up with a fair sized gap when I got to the stern. Printed a new set of hull frames and started over. Though I have not started skinning the hull I can see that if needed it is easier to make adjustments at bow rather than at the stern.

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  #26  
Old 03-02-2017, 06:10 AM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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The stern shapes are the most complicated, recreating or filling gaps at the bow is easier. Personally I usually start at the last "normal" skin just short of the keel/rudder interface and go in both directions from there. This seems to apply no who the designer is.
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  #27  
Old 03-03-2017, 05:22 PM
R0t0rh34d R0t0rh34d is offline
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Hey guys, thanks for all the great input and feedback. Been working alt, so I haven't had time to do much. I skinned a couple of the bottom plates, but the outcome was less then desired. I got some stray glue on the print and when I tried to rub it off of rubbed some paper with it. I will probably try and peel them off and start again.

Also, I couldn't find Romans instructions, if anyone has a link it would be greatly appreciated.
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  #28  
Old 03-03-2017, 06:19 PM
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KCStephens KCStephens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R0t0rh34d View Post
I got some stray glue on the print and when I tried to rub it off of rubbed some paper with it.
Bryan, Don't know if you did or not, but I would suggest spraying the printed sheets with a light coat or two of clear matte spray before cutting into them. This will help protect the printed surface making any stray glue easier to remove. Keep at it she looks great so far.
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  #29  
Old 03-03-2017, 10:02 PM
R0t0rh34d R0t0rh34d is offline
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No I didn't do that and have already messed up the bottom a little. Good news it's the very bottom, but I am thinking of peeling off what I have done and doing it over. I will coat it, great tip!
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  #30  
Old 03-05-2017, 10:48 PM
R0t0rh34d R0t0rh34d is offline
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Ok a quick update, I realized that I hadn't put these cross member pieces on before I started to put the skin on. I was watching the great videos of the USS Sacramento by Thales, when I saw him put them on and thought to myself, "wish mine had those, would make lining up all those pieces easier". Nowhere in the directions does it talk about putting these on first and they are the last page of the hull sheets, so I thought they were last. So I ripped off all the skinning I had done, reprinted all the hull sheets, and now have all these pieces in place. Now I can get down to some real skinning!
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USS Arizona build-img_0619.jpg   USS Arizona build-img_0620.jpg   USS Arizona build-img_0621.jpg  
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