HMVS Cerberus - First Card Build

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Robert, small world . Maybe we'll meet up some day.

I clicked on the links but it seems we need to be a member to look at the site.

It's no big deal signing up in Model Ship World. It's free of course . I'm a member of at least half a dozen Sites, there's a lot to be learnt from different disciplines.

Cheers, Danny

[VinceM]

Originally Posted by Vince, try [COLOR=RoyalBlue

THIS[/COLOR] Link. If you click on the "Add to Cart" button it gives you the option of either buying the pre-printed model or a Free Download version.

Cheers, Danny

That worked, thanks. Does anyone know the difference between the free model and the paid version?

[Knife]

Free is PDF download, pay is for a hard copy. Both versions are identical.

[VinceM]

Ok, just wondering.

[Dan Vadas]

Thanks Knife, but you're not quite correct. Note the following from the Papermodeller website :

Note 2 different models are available – a free download showing her as launched – and a more complex model that can be purchased that also allows her later appearance to be shown.

If you look at the pictures of the completed ships on the site you will see quite a few differences, the most notable being that the one in the last pic has two masts - this one is the free version which I'm building. I copied and enlarged the pics as a reference for building before I noticed the differences . The paid version gives you the option of building either one.

Hi Chris, thanks for the vote of confidence . Don't worry, I haven't "jumped ship". I'll just have twice as much typing to do for a while .

Cheers, Danny

[Dan Vadas]

Speaking of which, here's an update on my progress. Apart from the two masts and their rigging, and hanging the boats the model is pretty well finished. I'm about to do a touch-up of some areas where the printing was damaged, and then give her a coat of Matt Clear before doing any rigging.

My apologies for not placing the pics inside the post - I'm still working out how to do that.

Cheers, Danny

[Knife]

I stand corrected. You are correct. I recommend trying the Mosel next. It's a nice little model too.

[Don Boose]

The model looks good. The deck furniture is very well executed.

Let me know when you figure out how to insert images in the text. I have been trying to figure that out for the past ten years.

Do

[Dan Vadas]

No worries Knife, it took me a while to work it out too .

I'm doing a cheat on the next bits - the masts. I know that this model is "merely" a learning exercise for me before progressing to something more difficult, but rolling 2mm diameter tube 70mm long AND making it look good is still beyond my skill. So I'm making the masts from something I'm much more familiar using - wood .

For anyone interested, here is how I make a round mast from a piece of square stock. This is by far the best way of doing it, as you can make it in exactly any size you need and taper it too if needed (these ones are straight).

Starting off with a piece of square that is a fraction larger than needed to allow for final finish sanding (in this case 2.2mm), I mark off the length using a compass into increments of 7,10,7 of the thickness. This is a standard "formula" for deriving the points of an octagon (pic 1).

To clarify that - 7+10+7=24, so I set the compass to 7/24ths of the thickness which equals 0.64mm. Then I simply marked each face on both sides, without changing the setting.

Next I place the piece into a jig I've made for working with small stock (I have another SOMEWHERE that is cut at a 45 degree angle that holds it more accurately, but I can't find it and the straight-cut one will suffice for this job. The piece is put into the jig with one of the "points" of the square at the top. Then I sand the "point" down to the two lines either side. This step is repeated for the four "points" leaving an octagon (pics 2,3 and 4).

Then I gave each point of the octagon a light wipe over with the sanding stick to make virtually a 16-sided piece and finished of by rolling the piece between thumb and forefinger while lightly sanding it. Viola - a perfectly round mast (pic 5).

Making a tapered mast is slightly more complicated - you first need to taper the mast to the appropriate thickness at BOTH ENDS while it is still square and then apply the 10,7,10 method to BOTH ENDS of the piece and draw lines connecting each end mark. Then continue as for a straight mast.

I hope someone finds this useful .

Cheers, Danny

[Dan Vadas]

Originally Posted by Don Boose

The model looks good. The deck furniture is very well executed.

Let me know when you figure out how to insert images in the text. I have been trying to figure that out for the past ten years.

Do

Thanks Don, my skills have improved considerably since I started the model . The major mistakes are all from things I was making at the beginning, like the hull and decks which have a few whoopdies in them, but I've gone too far to go back there now. It's all a learning curve for me .

As a newbie it's not really my place to say, but this Site uses very antiquated Software - it's far easier to get around in Model Ship World, which has recently had an upgrade to a really good format. It's one click and you're there for just about everything, including uploading pictures.

Cheers, Danny