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  #11  
Old 07-10-2017, 01:15 PM
catopower catopower is offline
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Very nice work, Danny!

I am going to, as they say, "watch and learn."

Clare
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2017, 01:17 PM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Thank you Clare .

Rather than go the "wrapped in foam" route, I made the stand and glued it permanently to the hull. This was also temporarily glued to a piece of balsa longer than the ship, which allows me to turn it on my workbench without fear of accidentally hitting anything. I made the two supports from card in the shape of "I" beams.

All the slight gaps and joins in the hull have been filled and touched-up using watercolors. I managed to match the paints rather well, and am happy with the results.

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-stand-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-stand-3-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-hull-lacquered.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-touch-up-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-touch-up-2-.jpg  

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  #13  
Old 07-10-2017, 10:02 PM
kentyler kentyler is offline
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very nice "matching"

very nice indeed
i'm jealous
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  #14  
Old 07-11-2017, 05:27 AM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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the seams are fantastic - cleaned up and matched excellently.
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  #15  
Old 07-11-2017, 06:50 PM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Thank you Ken and Joe.

It took me about a week, but I've finished the Bridge. Most of the various types of Binoculars can't be seen when the roof is fitted, but I know they are there and it's good practice for later assemblies that are visible.

I used some filler in all the seams and touched them all up. A coat of Testors Dullcote has yet to be applied. I'm quite happy with the results .

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-6-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-binoculars-6-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-9-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-11-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-range-finder-1-.jpg  

IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-finished-4-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-finished-3-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-finished-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-painted-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bridge-painted-2-.jpg  

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  #16  
Old 07-11-2017, 06:54 PM
elliott elliott is offline
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Nice work on the binocs, rangefinder and bridge Danny.
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  #17  
Old 07-13-2017, 06:43 PM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Thanks for the kind words Elliott .

Next assembly to make is the Main Superstructure. A few tricky bits in the middle of both sides.

Then the Funnel Base. This took a while to get the skin to fit properly, quite a bit of delicate sanding (and I thought I was going to get a break from sanding by building a Card model rather than wood - Hah) .

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-forward-superstructure-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-forward-superstructure-2-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-forward-superstructure-3-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-funnel-base-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-funnel-base-2-.jpg  

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  #18  
Old 07-13-2017, 07:58 PM
kentyler kentyler is offline
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indeed

and paper dust is just as bad for your lungs as wood dust
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2017, 01:56 AM
kubeksus kubeksus is offline
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I see you have very high skills as far as shaping paper and cutting. Very well done. But for the much better effect I would suggest you to paint the white paper edges before gluing them on. Doing so, the paint will be only on those edges and will not cover any printed surface.

Jakub
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  #20  
Old 07-14-2017, 04:08 AM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Thanks Ken and Jakub .

Quote:
and paper dust is just as bad for your lungs as wood dust
Probably worse Ken, but at least there's very little of it in comparison.

Jakub - I paint the edges first wherever possible, but some of the trickier assemblies are simply impossible to glue without the use of some amount of filler, so I have to paint over that.

I also cut or sand bevels into the edges of the paper to get them as tight as possible. Halinski don't give you any extra length in any piece, so it's not always possible to do that either without creating a problem somewhere else.

I'm probably just being a bit too pedantic .

Cheers, Danny
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