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Old 06-21-2017, 10:04 PM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski

Hi all,

This is my second Card model (HMVS Cerberus was the first).

The kit is from Halinski (Poland) and is my first from them as well. The printing and Card are of excellent quality, the same can't be said for the instructions which are in Polish and don't translate very well. That only makes it more fun .

I started this kit 5 days ago, and am at the stage of skinning the hull. So far, so good - everything has fitted beautifully.

The kit came with laser-cut frames and a few other pieces. I added extra card to the sides of the frames to give them a bit more than 0.5mm on which to butt two hull skins together.

The join between the hull and the forecastle deck looks a bit odd in the pic below, but it's 100% correct. It actually overhangs the hull for half the section.

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-hull-frames-3-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-decks-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-skin-1-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-skin-1-2-.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2017, 01:46 AM
IJN Lukas IJN Lukas is online now
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There you have Yukikaze. Basicly the same ship as Amatsukaze. Look closely at the shape

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japane...Yukikaze_2.jpg

I can help with translate sometimes.
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Old 06-22-2017, 04:33 AM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Thanks for the link. There are a couple of good pics which will come in handy. And thanks for the offer to translate, I may need more help .

Here's a LINK to Amatsukaze on Wikipedia which gives a history of the ship for anyone interested.

Cheers, Danny
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:05 AM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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I've done a fair bit since my last post. The 1st decks are on, and I've skinned the hull. It came out reasonably well - not the best but certainly not the worst I've seen . The kit gives you NO margin for error on the hull skins.

Despite one of the best Fairing jobs I've ever done on a ship, and very accurate cutting of the sheets, I still managed to get a few very small gaps. I'm going to fill them with Testor's putty and touch it up with watercolors.

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-completed-hull-skinning-1-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-completed-hull-skinning-2-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-completed-hull-skinning-3-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-forecastle-1-.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2017, 05:28 AM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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Helpful hint in my opinion is to skin the lower hull first with extra material and paint, then skin the upper portion. This will eliminate all gaps and ultimately yield better results and is both easier and faster to build. That being said the match is fantastic on your kit. I also like how well the hull side rolled over to the deck in the 4th image.
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2017, 03:03 PM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Thank you Paper Fan. I appreciate the advice of an accomplished card modeller such as yourself .

As this is only my second Card ship I'm using it as a "learning curve" for the next one (GPM Bismarck) and I want to get as many rookie mistakes as possible eliminated before starting on it. I believe I've learnt a LOT about the nuances of hull skinning (mainly in what NOT to do ) and will be the better for the experience.

I'd decided before starting that I wasn't going to paint the hull, even though it no doubt is a quicker way of achieving a similar end. The printing on this kit has a subtle "weathering" which I find quite attractive and want to keep if at all possible, and I want to get my skill-set up as far as I can before tackling the monster.

Below are a couple of pics of my "gap filling" exploits, a reasonable job if I say so myself . I used (believe it or not) a Q-tip dipped in Acetone to clean up the Testor's Putty.

Now to see how good I am at paint matching .

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-gap-filling-4-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-gap-filling-7-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-gap-filling-9-.jpg  
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:12 PM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Quote:
Now to see how good I am at paint matching .
Pretty good apparently . Here are a couple of pics of the (red) hull after touching-up and with the Bilge Keels fitted. I'll do their edges later in conjunction with the Propellor Shaft Housings and Rudder.

I taped a strip of shaped balsa to the hull and clamped the keels to it before gluing on. The keels are only tacked on at this stage, I'll run a bead of glue along their length when they dry.

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bilge-keels-2-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bilge-keels-4-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-bilge-keels-6-.jpg  
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2017, 04:34 AM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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Before starting any Superstructure work I thought it might be a good idea to fit the Propellor Shafts, Screws and Rudder, as these would have been more difficult later in the build when there would have been the risk of damaging something above deck.

The central Cones on the screws were a bit tricky to make (check out the printed piece for one of them below), but I'm more than happy with the results .

Cheers, Danny
Attached Thumbnails
IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-prop-shafts-8-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-prop-shafts-10-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-props-2-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-props-5-.jpg   IJN Amatsukaze 1940, 1:200 Halinski-props-7-.jpg  

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  #9  
Old 07-02-2017, 05:43 AM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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Looks good, however be prepared to fix the screws in the future. Handling the model is tricky with them installed. Typically I install the shafts and rudder now but then hold off on the screws till the end, then simply pop them on with the hull sitting on a table and I work from underneath.
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2017, 06:58 AM
Dan Vadas Dan Vadas is offline
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I actually thought of doing that, but unfortunately too late . I'll tape some thin foam around the stern to try and protect them. I've just finished making the stand for the model and will glue the hull to it. That will help to keep the screws from damage.

Cheers, Danny
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