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  #11  
Old 10-08-2017, 02:05 PM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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Excellent project Tomek. Your hull planking technique is a pleasure to see.
Mike
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  #12  
Old 10-08-2017, 02:10 PM
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Seahorse Seahorse is offline
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Hi Christian,
I wrote a little about planking just a moment after you asked the question:-)))
I have never used any filling. It is a question of practice. My 15 years old models doesn't look good at all.

Best
Tomek
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2017, 02:24 AM
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Kevin WS Kevin WS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seahorse View Post
maybe one question: gun carriages have no blocks, only ropes tied to some kind of "jaws" on the sides.I can't see breeching either. Are those guns so small that blocks and full rigging were not needed to operate?
Looking at the photo this looks like the guns have been secured for rough weather. When firing, the block and would have been fitted and attached to the eyes already being used.

It is difficult to judge the size, but they look big enough to require block and tackle - otherwise, how would recoil be controlled?
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  #14  
Old 10-09-2017, 07:10 AM
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abhovi abhovi is offline
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But in the bow and the stern there must be places where the second layer does not touch the first one. What happens if you press there while you are working on the model. Don't you get any dents?
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2017, 09:25 AM
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Seahorse Seahorse is offline
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Kevin WS,
of course, what you wrote is very likely. I'm just wondering if this was done and what was the benefit of it. On the other hand these blocks would be so small that I would not make them:-///

Ab,
if you press any cardboard model too hard, you can destroy it:-))) So of course cardboard hulls cannot be compared to wooden ones. You must be much more delicate.
I think that very curved planks (in the bow for example) works the same as semicircular ceiling vaults built of bricks. I don't know why(:-))) but these curved planks on my models are quite rigid, resistant to dents unless you press it intentionally. I have found some old pictures of old models and all are made the same way: no fillings and two or three layers.

Best
Tomek
Attached Thumbnails
Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-p1030032_zpsrlewin0d.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pa030006_zpsr291hulo.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pb100005_zps5f13zld9.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pc280018_zpsaeiwik2c.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-saet-poszycie_zps2qbqrigc.jpg  

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  #16  
Old 10-09-2017, 09:31 AM
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Don Boose Don Boose is offline
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Very fine work!

Don
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2017, 09:45 AM
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Kevin WS Kevin WS is offline
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Tomek - really it is your model so it depends how you want to show it.

There is nothing wrong with showing the guns stowed as per the photo - except all the other bits and pieces would not be lying around loose.

If you do want to model the guns ready for action and the blocks will be too tiny, you can represent these with knots coated with white glue and a blob of paint. Did this in the past on small scall ships and it worked ok. Squish them oval. Can also use tin foil.
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2017, 10:07 AM
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Seahorse Seahorse is offline
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Hi everybody,
thank you for comments.
Kevin - thank you for the idea of knots coated with glue and painted. Still I have time to decide how I will make guns.

What have been done:

1. I added 1,5 mm stripes inside bulwarks in the midship and in the bow and closed it inside.
2. Four columns and a crossbeam glued together and placed on the deck have built the front wall with doors and windows. I add some decorations later.
3. I covered the ship with decks and added the last strips of "false hull planks"

Now the shape of my Duyfken is simmilar to the replica:-)))

Best
Tomek
Attached Thumbnails
Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-burta-wew-01.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-burta-wew-02.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-burta-wew-03.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-cianka-01.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-cianka-02.jpg  

Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pok-ady-gorne-burty-01.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pok-ady-gorne-burty-02.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pok-ady-gorne-burty-03.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pok-ady-gorne-burty-04.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-pok-ady-gorne-burty-05.jpg  

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  #19  
Old 10-28-2017, 02:51 AM
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Seahorse Seahorse is offline
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Welcome on Duyfken,

I changed printers and spent some time learnig how "to treat" new colours. That is why some identical colours are not identical. But finally small progress can be presented.

I glued the colour layer of planks. It is only a paper of 180g/m2 without any additional cardboard to make it thicker. Before cutting off planks I smeared the other side of paper with water-based wood glue. Thanks to that planks bent across according to shapes of frames. It is much easier to avoid chinks between planks and to "level" adjacent edges. All parts fitted well and the bottom part of the hull looks great. I am always too critical about my models, but now I am really satisfied with this part of the hull.
Above the water line I will add more stripes as well as channels and the rest of "white cracks" will be covered.

Best
Tomek
Attached Thumbnails
Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-01.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-03.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-07.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-10.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-11.jpg  

Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-12.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-13.jpg   Duyfken 1606 (1:100 from scratch)-planki-14.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 10-28-2017, 06:29 AM
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eatcrow2 eatcrow2 is offline
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Great idea with the planking!! Outstanding results..
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