Kookliks 1/72 U-Boat Type VII C North Sea Camo - Dave Winfield Repaint

[cgutzmer]

Dave - start a NEW topic about flags That will make it much easier for people to give feedback in public - then they can feed off each others ideas heh heh
Chris

[jagolden01]

"You know, soldier, I notice you're always last" - Sgt Hulka
"I'm pacing myself, seargent". - Bill Murray

Moving along but no build yet. The large scale-up will require the parts that normally fit on one sheet to be divided across many sheets when printed.
Since each parts sheet is alphabetically noted, I've been adding the sheet "letter" next to each sheet part number so they'll be no mix-ups.
Oddly, the first page of formers seems to be in raster format while the rest are vector format.

Yes, I could do that by hand with a pencil after printing out but I have difficulty writing in a readable manner and I'd probably get mislabel!

[jagolden01]

The scaled-up formers total 24 pages.
on two parts pages I split some formers across two sheets. These are large bulky formers that can easily and precisely be pieced together.
for three of the prints, I strapped together 11" x 17" paper to form 11" x 34" sheets. These were for former parts that I didn't think would piece together accurately.

Still have not decided what to laminate the former prints to.
By my measurement, the slots will be .09" so I'll need to use something as close as possible to that

After I do get the sheet mounted, do I cut on the outside of the line or bisect it down the middle? Thoughts?

[airdave]

thats a good question...as you enlarge parts, the line thickness becomes an issue in the overall size of the pieces.

personally I would cut to the minimum (center line or inside), this way if your model shrinks slightly you can adjust the "skin" by trimming panels...but if you enlarge the model, you can't "stretch" the outer panels to fit and might end up with gaps.

just my inexperienced opinion.

[cgutzmer]

Unless I am missing the obvious here just cut the slots out to the same thickness as whatever you are laminating too
Chris

[Padre]

That's what I do when I rescale a model, and I do it a lot. I usually cut just on the outside edge of the line, I think.............

[Papercut]

Are you building the up-scaled frame yet? Will there be photos soon. Really looking forward to this re-sized sub. Have you printed both versions yet, go thru and look very close and you will notice a few differences between the printed details. I have discovered it will be helpful to include parts from both versions in a single build. For a place to look, check the reprint of the deck compared to original. Look at the details on the original and the ones on the re-color, mine did not come out sharp like they did on the original. This caused me concern until I figured I could just use details from both the get the results I want. Again, look'n forward to your build.:DRick

[jagolden01]

papercut, I've been mounting the frame pieces. I spent some time looking for a single, thick board to ount on but did not find what I wanted. There used to be an art and architectural supply store a couple of cities over, but they've closed down.
I am using 2 thicknesses of standard illustration board laminated together.
My hands ache just thinking about all the cutting.

Thanks for the advice on the original vs. repaint for the details. I'll look over and see what I may ant to combine.

I wonder if the repaint had access to the original vector drawing or if he had to use rasterized to do the repaint?

[airdave]

The repaint is closely guarded military secret...if I told you how it was done, I would have to....oh, wait...is the cold war over?....



evry repaint I have done so far, is a little different, depending on the original files I have to work with.

For the Uboat, I started with a set of Photoshop files (I don't use Photoshop)..that I transferred to another program.

this particular repaint involved using Kooklik's well laid out instruction diagrams. Between those and the actual model pages/parts, I was able to reconstruct the entire side of the sub (in a 2D manner..but with anticipated overlaps, curves and 3D measurements...I got a pretty good eye too)

anyway, once I have a reconstructed sub or even just a section, I start manually applying the already established artwork* and sectioning it to fit each part. (*artwork is a combination of vector, bitmaps, jpegs and actual photographs as needed, already created in another art/paint program)

the time consuming part is making adjustments to all the final layers and adding details and final textures.

yes, you will always find differences in repaint files (quality, definition or smoothing, colour variation, etc etc), unfortunately everyone has different printing processes too and this affects the look of the model...papercuts idea to blend parts is a great one! but only if you already have both models to compare.
If you don't have both, then I guess you wouldn't know the difference anyway?
I remember altering the deck boards...I applied some old wood texture using a photo or bitmap ot something like that?...maybe thats why it looks softer, not as sharp?

[Papercut]

Hello jagolden01, I am looking forward to you're monster build of this beast of the sea. Believe me I feel for ya on the cutting out of the frames. I discovered a easy way to do this is with a break away knife, seems to cut easier, holds the edge better and you do not waste time twisting the end of a knife to replace a blade every few cuts. That alone wears me out.Try to find one with a metal body with a lock slide, the 1st one I purchased was plastic with a simple slide that every time you touched it the blade would slide out of the handle. One w/a locking slide will not do this. I am about to start laminating to card as well and hope to post some photos soon. I hope I did not cause a problem with my pointing that some details were sharper on the original than the re-color. This I believe was due to the re-doing of the original print, I have another hobby, photography, and I full well know that a re-do of a print can be different than the original, that is the trade off and I agree depending on the printing process and equipment, this can as well cause variations. I do want to point out too anyone reading this post and trying to decide if to purchase this re-color of the original, do not hesitate. A wonderful job was done to bring us another version of this wonderful kit. The re-color is as good as the original. I was only pointing out a option for jagolden01 since he was scaling this baby up. I in no means intended to point out a flaw that is not really a flaw but the way this re-color works for those who have never done one. Alot, and I mean alot of work has to be done to get a subject to turn out this nice. So if I have done any harm, I am sorry.:DRick