#61
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One of the many things that can ruin the look of a paper model are the chain-dot lines marking the white footprints of structures, or external cut lines. No idea why designers do it, since any inevitable misalignment or less than perfect cut leaves an unsightly signature of white lines and black dotted ink. It would be far better to use solid colour and lines throughout. After all it’s always pretty obvious which side a part need scoring on.
Anyway I began the tedious process of mixing paint to match the surrounding areas and blocking out the lines for the foredeck chain plates and gun platforms: Parts glued down after colouring their white edges. I often use an old 1” slip gauge to hold the top surfaces of plate parts flat while letting blobs of PVA act as liquid levelling shim: Another small step complete: |
#62
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Never heard of a slip gauge. Had to look it up. Are you a tool and die maker? Just to keep this post on-topic the Emden is looking better every time you post. You did a great job matching the deck color I think.
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This is a great hobby for the retiree - interesting, time-consuming, rewarding - and about as inexpensive a hobby as you can find. Shamelessly stolen from a post by rockpaperscissor |
#63
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Thanks! I’m a design engineer, not a toolmaker; more of a tinkerer when it comes to that kind of thing. I find engineering tools like straight edges, slip gauges and strips of thin steel useful in paper modelling. For example, a slip gauge can be used as a weight, as well as a method of getting three sides of a box structure perfectly perpendicular (and loads of other alignment related things).
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#64
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These dotted and dashed lines are part of the assembly code and there to help people remember which direction to fold. Adopted by German based publishing companies for many years. It's like their tradition. You won't find it used on models released by East Europeans. In recent years many designers moved away from this approach by replacing dot lines with solid on top of the body part while retaining coded lines on the outside. Unfortunately footprint lines, for the most, were left unchanged.
I think there are two major camps of perceptions when comes to paper models. One wants to build things out of paper and has no problem with other people noticing this fact that is made out of paper. In fact they happy to make sure its "paperness" is fully exposed. The other group uses paper to build replica of real things and tend to eliminate paper attributes so to make their miniatures look more realistic. When comes to ships I am definitely in the second group but while procuring new designs for German publishers I still use their line coding but only on the outside of the body part... Darius
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#65
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Deck side houses fitted along with their door doublers:
|https://thumbsnap.com/VF3KsrEK[/IMG] I noted previously that the hull sides tapered inwards slightly, and wondered at the time if I’d made an error when fitting the sides. I had seen this in older, wooden warships, but not that I could remember on iron ones. I was pleased to find that the deck side house ends were also angled to match, so it appears hull construction was correct after all. Phew. That completes what I’d call the main hull assembly. Next will be superstructure. |
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#66
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Quote:
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#67
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You ship guys are a whole other class! Great progress.
MS
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MS “I love it when a plane comes together.” - Colonel John “Hannibal” Smith, A Team leader Long Live 1/100!! ; Live, Laff, Love... |
#68
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#69
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Your hull looks near perfect and that's not an easy task. From now on is just a matter of time, which I suspect is going to be in short supply for the next few weeks.... How do you like paper thickness...?
Darius
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Paper Lab |
#70
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Thanks for the encouragement! How do I like the paper thickness of the Emden? It's fine - easy to cut, but strong enough not to warp too much with PVA. |
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