S.M.S. Emden (1910), HMV, 1:250

[PaperLab]

What you did is very hard to accomplish but you managed an excellent result. Impressive.

Returning back to that scarf joint. I draw another diagram which should make things obvious... I hope... It also shows V-grooves instead of scoring on the outside which usually damages printed color. Cutting V shaped groove on the inside, assuming you won't cut through, make folds look much cleaner and preserve color continuity.

And regarding hull assembly, there is another method of fake ribs and fake skin. Basically you trace rib outlines and laminate those transparencies on 1 mm thick card stock cutting around .5 mm off the outside edge allowing fake skin made out of .5 mm or less card to be inserted between ribs and flash with their outer rib edge.

It's time consuming and bit tricky but if done well you'll end up with solid base on which proper hull skin can be applied to. Sometimes cautious sanding and even additional laminating might be required in order to achieve smooth and continuous hull curvature.

It's similar to what I'm trying to accomplish when providing 3D printed Hull Core for my project, except in above scenario you doing it on your own using paper...

Darius

[drg]

Originally Posted by PAPER FAN

Angry, com is my phone auto correct for eggcrate.

Thanks rickstef perfect definition. The hull is beautiful and expect the ship will be a masterpiece.

Thanks for the clarification!

[drg]

Originally Posted by PaperLab

What you did is very hard to accomplish but you managed an excellent result. Impressive.

Returning back to that scarf joint. I draw another diagram which should make things obvious... I hope... It also shows V-grooves instead of scoring on the outside which usually damages printed color. Cutting V shaped groove on the inside, assuming you won't cut through, make folds look much cleaner and preserve color continuity.

And regarding hull assembly, there is another method of fake ribs and fake skin. Basically you trace rib outlines and laminate those transparencies on 1 mm thick card stock cutting around .5 mm off the outside edge allowing fake skin made out of .5 mm or less card to be inserted between ribs and flash with their outer rib edge.

It's time consuming and bit tricky but if done well you'll end up with solid base on which proper hull skin can be applied to. Sometimes cautious sanding and even additional laminating might be required in order to achieve smooth and continuous hull curvature.

It's similar to what I'm trying to accomplish when providing 3D printed Hull Core for my project, except in above scenario you doing it on your own using paper...

Darius

It makes sense, but I still can't imagine being able to do it on such thin paper. I'll try it on some scrap.


I guess the other way would be to apply strips to the ribs in order to form a bigger surface area to apply the sides to. I think some of the larger HMV models might use that method?

[PaperLab]

Those who warned about rubber glue coming apart were correct I'm afraid. Few months back I started test builds of my new design, just a quick proof of concept, printed straight out of the CAD without adding any colors and than many tabbed elements were joined by means of rubber cement only. Six months later I can see these joints are now starting to separate. If I press them back they hold except couple of days later they move apart again. Not a good sign. Be careful with your model.

Darius

[drg]

Originally Posted by PaperLab

Those who warned about rubber glue coming apart were correct I'm afraid. Few months back I started test builds of my new design, just a quick proof of concept, printed straight out of the CAD without adding any colors and than many tabbed elements were joined by means of rubber cement only. Six months later I can see these joints are now starting to separate. If I press them back they hold except couple of days later they move apart again. Not a good sign. Be careful with your model.

Darius

Thanks for the update. I must admit I was a bit wary of it after testing on scrap, but found it useful as an alternative to strips of masking tape to hold things in place before committing to PVA. Funnily enough I put it in my ‘not often used’ container in my modelling cupboard only this morning...

[drg]

Main deck inner sides are on, including the gun bulges. I used some wooden strips clamped with bulldog clips to keep the sides ship shape while the glue set:



And the upper deck inner sides, fillet plates and water deflector:



Still got some angled strakes to fit to the top side edges.

[Doug J]

You've got a sweet build going!!

[drg]

Angled strakes fitted:




The original inner pieces were incorrectly marked for the stiffeners so I cut them off and made new ones from spare light grey paper.

[PaperLab]

Great looking hull. It's fascinating watching your methods working with this not too easy model.

Darius

[drg]

Originally Posted by PaperLab

Great looking hull. It's fascinating watching your methods working with this not too easy model.

Darius

Thanks! It’s certainly lives up to its “very difficult” rating, but enjoyable none the less.

BTW there’s a model design related grumble/question incoming in my next update... :-)