#101
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Wow. This is really precise work! Thank you for sharing the photos and your methods.
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#102
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Cutting on glass is ok...cutting on wood dulls the blade...goes against logic but is true.
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#103
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Quote:
Do you have a reference for that? In my experience, glass will kill a scalpel blade pretty much on contact. |
#104
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Thank you for your photography efforts and time, sharing these extremely impressive build techniques.
BP |
#105
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Ccoyle was correct about the bridge!
It’s a bit of an animal. The upper and lower surfaces are curved, and double skinned. I opted to glaze the wheelhouse windows with thin acetate, so they are effectively triple skinned. After carefully cutting out the printed windows from both skins, I sandwiched the acetate. This made forming the curves more difficult. The lower curves are defined by a deck former, and the mid deck. I made a wooden jig to hold the curved bits in place while the PVA set: Same with the mid deck, but this also needed weighting to the lower deck house: The reason I opted to glaze the wheel house, was that the wheel and binnacle are in there, and partially visible: With these in place, the upper deck house could be fitted (front and rear is indicated on the tabs). And yes, the main mast is going to be very tight fit in there... Then the roof piece could be fitted. I wasn’t too happy with the fit around the join, nor with the design of the mid deck join - there’s a slice of deck visible where it should be covered. I opted to add two thin bands of grey paper to neaten these up. Call it a bodge, or modeller’s license, but either way it looks better to my eyes: Still a load more detail to go onto the bridge, but at least the main bits are there and aligned. |
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#106
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Wonderful work. You have great skills.
__________________
Greg |
#107
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#108
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I have this kit as well.
It's soon to be started, after I finish CSS Teazer, HMS Dreadnought and my scratch Matsumoto castle. Glad you're building it first, so I can try avoid mistakes via your attempt ! LOL Ricardo |
#109
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#110
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Google Adsense |
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