Card thicknesses

[10zygote01]

Can anyone please help. Being a newcomer to card kits I am having a bit of trouble deciding which card/paper thickness to use when building. I have a Shipyard HMS mercury to build and that gives suggested card thicknesses. However, going one step further I have decided to try the HMV Bismark ( a mite ambitious I know).This does not give any suggested card thicknesses. I obviously wish to prevent 'panting' between bulkeads etc.My previous period ship building has been 'Plank on bulkhead/frame' models. Being wood, there is no problem regarding wood to use.

[ViperPilot]

Couldn't you use the Recommendations from the Mercury for the Bismark as well?

[10zygote01]

Thanks for the reply. I had thought to use the thicknesses as given in the Mercury as a guide but I thought that there may be some 'rule of thumb' which could be applied to paper/card selection

[Diderick A. den Bakker]

This is my rule of thumb:
In the rest of the world, paper weight is simply measured in grams per square metre. Life is too short to understand or explain the USA system of points and pounds... Rule of thumb: use the two sorts of paper that are most easily found. For most models I find 160 grams/m² very suitable, but some people prefer 140 or even 120. The final decision is up to the builder who downloads and prints the model. Sometimes a particular weight is mentioned at the top of the page.
Regular printer paper: 80 grams/m² (Ca. 25 lbs. For text, instructions, small parts, parts to be laminated onto card).
Maximum weight for most printers: 160 grams/m² (Ca.60 - 80 pounds. Suitable for most model parts).

Diderick A. den Bakker,
zeistbouwplaten.nl
Holland

[10zygote01]

Diderick.
Thanks for the assistance. I have been collecting various weights/thicknesses of paper based on the slipway kit. I think that I shall have to experiment on a dummy build before I commit to assembling on the model itself.

[Kevin WS]

10zygote01 - while there is no fixed rule, you can go by what similar kits use generally.

Remember also that the type of kit also sometimes determines the paper thickness. So your idea of experimenting with a few parts is a good idea.

To illustrate this point I use 80 gram for 1/250 or 1/300 small models, but the same paper thickness is also generally used for life-size birds - which have compound curves for shaping - this requires the thin paper, but the curves then give strength to the finished product!

I always try and find kits of similar subjects where the paper thickness is given, and then use that.

You can also ask here on the Forum about what paper thickness to use for a specific mode.

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You do not say whether you are using American paper or metric paper...... Comparisons between the two (i.e. trying to find the Metric or American equivalent) open up a whole rats nest when you try to find the equivalent.

I managed to figure it out though, using the basis that all the paper specs are irrelevant provided you get the correct thickness. So, if you are ever trying to convert between the two types see this post.....

US/Metric Paper Conversions

[hornswoggler]

Originally Posted by 10zygote01

... I have decided to try the HMV Bismark ( a mite ambitious I know).This does not give any suggested card thicknesses. ...

I don't quite understand your problem. The HMV Bismarck comes printed on cardstock of the appropriate thickness (for most of the parts anyway). If you read the instructions you will find a section explaining the line codes. There you will find the symbols which indicate the parts that need to be doubled or tripled by lamination on cardstock of the same thickness. If you use the scrap from the kit you have the correct thickness.
Good luck!

[airdave]

Originally Posted by hornswoggler

I don't quite understand your problem. The HMV Bismarck comes printed on cardstock of the appropriate thickness (for most of the parts anyway). If you read the instructions you will find a section explaining the line codes. There you will find the symbols which indicate the parts that need to be doubled or tripled by lamination on cardstock of the same thickness. If you use the scrap from the kit you have the correct thickness.
Good luck!

Both kits mentioned are pre-printed kits.

Maybe he is just asking about formers and bulkhead thicknesses?

[10zygote01]

To all posters. The HMV kit I have is printed in an A4 book form that has no cardstock sheets. It apears to be left to the individual building the HMV kit to decide the card to use. Hence my original question. Yes, my question relates to bulkheads and keel because if these are too flimsy, accuracy could be compromised. Also, if the thickness used to create the detailed parts is too thick then difficulty in creating those parts will encountered. Making these detail parts will be best, I think, made after creating them with various thickesses of paper/card. Once again my thanks to everyone that has answered my post. I will be using metric thickesses as it appears that this could a 'common standard'.

[Kevin WS]

HMV kits have the correct paper thicknesses - just cut up the book!

If you want to reinforce sections do so but be careful how you do this - so you do not throw out the dimensions, or the parts will not fit later.