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  #91  
Old 01-12-2020, 09:29 PM
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Kevin WS Kevin WS is offline
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Very clever idea, espeally the "reaming" tool!
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  #92  
Old 01-12-2020, 11:33 PM
shalmaneser3 shalmaneser3 is offline
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I’ve got to say the amount of thought put into how to build a model from paper has been admirable. Following this thread has given me things to ponder and elements to incorporate into my next build. Keep it up.
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  #93  
Old 01-13-2020, 03:12 AM
drg drg is offline
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Originally Posted by shalmaneser3 View Post
Iíve got to say the amount of thought put into how to build a model from paper has been admirable. Following this thread has given me things to ponder and elements to incorporate into my next build. Keep it up.

Thanks! Must admit, I'm finding building a large model from paper is more tricky than a small one for some reason - maybe the bigger parts are disproportionately more floppy than those on a smaller model.
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  #94  
Old 01-13-2020, 06:36 AM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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love the 3d printed tools, wish I had access to one. You make any other tools as well?
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  #95  
Old 01-13-2020, 03:30 PM
Positive_Rate Positive_Rate is offline
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Thats a great idea!
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  #96  
Old 01-13-2020, 04:55 PM
PaperLab PaperLab is offline
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I'm not sure with type of paper HMV is using you're going to see much improvement by adopting scarf joints. This method works better on thicker stock, like .2 mm and higher. What I do is to cut out part first, the regular way mind you, and only after that I use blade #18 on unprinted side to shave off the edge at around 45*

Very nice idea with 3d printed tools.
With my current model under development I went for completed 3d printed hull frame and main deckhouses. Probably not everyone cup of tee but I like it. Makes the most important part of ship construction a lot more predictable.*
Attached Thumbnails
Bismarck, HMV, 1:250-buttjoint.jpg   Bismarck, HMV, 1:250-scarf_joint.jpg   Bismarck, HMV, 1:250-200_hunt_i_x2.jpg   Bismarck, HMV, 1:250-200_hunt_i_x3.jpg  
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  #97  
Old 01-14-2020, 05:45 AM
drg drg is offline
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Originally Posted by PaperLab View Post
I'm not sure with type of paper HMV is using you're going to see much improvement by adopting scarf joints. This method works better on thicker stock, like .2 mm and higher. What I do is to cut out part first, the regular way mind you, and only after that I use blade #18 on unprinted side to shave off the edge at around 45*

Very nice idea with 3d printed tools.
With my current model under development I went for completed 3d printed hull frame and main deckhouses. Probably not everyone cup of tee but I like it. Makes the most important part of ship construction a lot more predictable.*

It's not really a scarf joint, its more cutting the paper so the mating egde is a thin as possible, thereby reducing the 'v' shaped gap you get as a result of the grind angle of a normal blade used perpendicular to the paper.
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  #98  
Old 01-14-2020, 10:10 AM
PaperLab PaperLab is offline
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Smile

I prefer scarf name ( paper scarf ) rather than "Cutting Paper at Angle Instead of Perpendicular to Paper in Order to Reduce V Shaped Gap" or CPAIPPORVSG for short....
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  #99  
Old 01-14-2020, 11:52 AM
drg drg is offline
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Originally Posted by PaperLab View Post
I prefer scarf name ( paper scarf ) rather than "Cutting Paper at Angle Instead of Perpendicular to Paper in Order to Reduce V Shaped Gap" or CPAIPPORVSG for short....

- but a scarf joint is a specific type of overlapping joint; this method doesn't overlap at all, so it might get confusing for folks if they read that and expect to have to cut matching pairs of angles through thin paper...


I don't think it has an equivalent name in woodworking, since it's possibly the weakest method imaginable to join adjacent sheets of material. It won't work without a backing strip.
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  #100  
Old 01-14-2020, 12:06 PM
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Beachead Beachead is offline
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Either way - looks great! Keep'em coming.
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