#21
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Darius*
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Paper Lab |
#22
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I seem to recall someone may have even posted a tutorial on display cases in this forum at some stage but haven't searched to try and find it. It may have been "loenf", as he puts all his models in cool little cases but don't quote me on that. |
#23
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Finally got all the upper hull substructure parts cut out. There’s a lot. Here’s a Jaguar Class torpedo boat hull of the same scale for a size comparison:
A lot of the parts need scoring on the opposite side of the printed paper. I usually mark the ends of these lines with a pin hole: Then score the lines between the holes: |
#24
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With big model like this you might consider investing in Lightbox. Not a big investment btw... Check Amazon.
And now you can trace all lines on unprinted side with ease..
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Paper Lab |
#25
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Mein Gott!! Das Schiff ist wunderbar!
As for the swastikas, I would scan the deck parts, and flags as well. I would save them as pdf's or jpg's, and import them one piece at a time into Inkscpape. Draw up a simple swastika on the page grid, with the pen tool. Then duplicate the drawing and layer it over the deck pieces and flag pieces. In Inkscape, you can play around with the scale of the swastika drawing to get it to fit within the white circles. On the decking in particular, you can play around with the swastika's opacity, to let deck planking show through. When you have it looking the way you want it, 'group' the pieces together, save it as a pdf, and print it out on cardstock . If the scale is slightly off, you can rescale it in your printer's preferences, until you get the right size. Inkscape is a free download, there are THOUSANDS of how to videos on youtube, and is, IMHO, by far the safest and easiest way to modify a piece without ever 'touching' your original kit piece. Hope this helps, good building, please post more pics. Tbolt 13 |
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#26
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Thanks, the issue with scanning, editing and printing, is colour match with adjacent parts. |
#27
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#28
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#29
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#30
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Google Adsense |
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