RF Liberté 1:250 Design and Build - Page 2

**Royaloakmin** · #11 03-03-2020, 06:17 PM

We’d be happy to help, I’m sure Mike is too.

**Golden Bear** · #12 03-05-2020, 02:45 PM

I've actually been working pretty constantly on this project. Something must be wrong!!

One photo shows the status of the overall modeling with the distinctive funnels. Exhaust from the furnaces down below actually only exited through a smaller core. Surrounding that core were three diametrical shafts. Each of them was used to draw in air for different purposes down in the engine rooms. The flanges cover the open upper ends of these intakes to keep clinkers out and maybe rain.

The other photo shows that I jumped ahead on laying out the hull frames so that I can work on something if I feel like. It is a little complex but I have found that a more boxlike frame helps limit movement during construction.

Carl

**Michael Mash** · #13 03-05-2020, 03:13 PM

Nice to see your “Rhino” renderings again . . . like the old days.
I use Sketchup (not the pro version).
It is not as comprehensive as Rhino, but it works well.

**Royaloakmin** · #14 03-05-2020, 05:31 PM

I always thought those were just insulation spaces but your explanation makes more sense.

**birder** · #15 03-07-2020, 11:36 AM

Hi Carl, it's really cool to see your ship modeling again, and learn a bit about these, nice nice nice

**Golden Bear** · #16 03-10-2020, 07:55 PM

Hey Birder! I remember that wonderful image you use for yourself. I hope you've survived the last few years better than some of us! LOL

I don't really have much to show. I worked on the hull framing - which IMO is where the make-or-break of a model is decided for a few days. My days when I am involved are at least 10 hours so don't think that it is like working for Hewlett-Packard which tells people that they are only valuable because they can be fired before profit statements.

Then I had to try to make all the bits fit together AND because I am a Boss designer (go ahead and slap me, I deserve it) I relieve the surfaces for the thickness of the card stock that will fit over it. I.E. when you design to the ideal edges, you need to take a little off because card stock will be attached and make it up. I used to ignore this and get away with it but the model actually is just a little more forgiving when I do it.

I have a nasty secret and don't know when I should tell it.

Can I trust you? Duh, this is the internet.

Anyway, I got an even better printer (in SOOOO many ways) and it uses pigmented inks which offer a greater depth of colors in many ways. But, OOPS, when these marvelous pigments are sprayed onto card stock, which does not possess the surface of Bright White paper (don't settle for less if you can avoid it) the pigmenting lies at many different layers and the colors SUCK!.

So TL:DR and :Don't care. What this means that I either I go back to my old printer (duh, I've still got it. It has metal components.) or I try something new that I've wanted to try anyway: lay down a card layer and then cover it with a better colored PAPER part. I'm certain you will all laugh at me and almost nobody know WTF I mean. But I'll try to show you folks later. Not now. I haven't been feeling so solid today and thought I would pass out on a walk (No! I don't weigh 400 lbs! I've been thinner until recently and have always exercised quite a bit!). Life is wonderful!

So blah blah, no one actually gives a hoot but things take a lot of thinking, even at the framing stage.

I did my best - may I point out that this is the longest ship I have attempted? And I am still limited by about an 8x10" image. So the long pieces need to be either two or three pieces. I may have overdid the complexity in the attempts to get things to work together.

Carl

**wiwo1961** · #17 03-11-2020, 02:22 AM

Hello Carl,

the Framework looks really good!
Printer storys ... I could write a book on this.

Cheers

Wiwo

**Michael Mash** · #18 03-11-2020, 06:25 AM

Good to see the results with the frame Carl.
Regarding model length: Yes, looks like this one has more length than your older pre-1900 French ships we are so familiar with. That brings up one of the advantages of paper/card . . . we can build them big.

**Michael Mash** · #19 03-11-2020, 04:09 PM

Carl:
Regarding your inquiry as to the brand of 28lb paper I use . . .
Right now I am using Office Depot Color Copy Pro.
I have used several brands over the years, and truthfully, I have not detected any differences in quality or performance.
Do you know whether or not there is a brand that modelers hold in high regard over and above most others?

**Golden Bear** · #20 03-11-2020, 08:56 PM

Mike, I am sort of isolated on the magic of papers for modeling.

The one thing I do swear by is Strathmore Bristol 100lb which, when doubled and spray glued, comes out to be a smidge under 1mm and for me, perfect for all those frames and whatnot (usually another layer of paper is spray glued on top! ... so 1mm is almost true).

Otherwise I use HP Bright White because it is nice looking but I have no idea of the weight.

Now I need to go to Office Depot and avoid contact with people. Heh. Pandemic sounds like the starting bell for a worldwide card model frenzy!!!

Carl

Freaking heck, why are the photos upside-down? So sorry folks.