STATENDAM 1:250 by scaldismodelclub.nl

[Positive_Rate]

Hello all,

Here's the one I'm currently building:
S.S. 'STATENDAM' - HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

Here's a little clip to get the ide from the era!:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wx1zcwjYzbY

It comes as 7 sheets of A3. I have been itching to get to it because its a larger model than I've done before, not too expensive either, and I think compared to some not so detailed - I notice it's using 'flat' masts as opposed to cylinders etc, but I already think I will make my own.

My major concern - is how will I manage the side skin! I have had trouble with this particular aspect of actually all the models I've built to date, especially where they meet at the bow. So, if anyones got any tips - do pass it on!

As you can see the rails are the printed type - they look a bit odd at the stern as you can see.

Stage 1: Assembly of the keel. Theres 3 waterline baseplates which oddly enough are required to be placed printed side down. The for'd and aft sections join to the middle which has the large triangle section with hull gray printed on it.
There are 5 plain vertical bulkheads glued to the keel. Instructions tell you to pierce the line where they attach at 3 points (see pic), so you can see whether the bulkhead is aligning correctly from the bottom (printed) side. This I did and also fitted the remaining 2 bulkheads which come adjoined to the foredeck and aftdeck (see pics). Took care at this point to make sure they were vertical and they did not protrude beyond the covering deck. Measured the distance of each deck-covered frame from the aft edge (for foredeck) and carefully marked the fordeck so I could be sure the top was exactly above the base at both sides.
Made a mistake with frame 5, decided to add a strip of card protruding beyond the deck so I could easily align it before the PVA dried.

[Positive_Rate]

Stage 2: The instructions caution you about the forward bulkhead, #5 - the 2 behind it are convex, however, the hull transitions to frame #5 where it is both convex (at the top) and concave (at the bottom). You have to get this from one flat sheet of paper! Haven't done this before!
Tidied up the edges of all 6 side-skins with gray, yellow and red. Initially used felt tip for the gray - tut tut! It 'bloomed' very slightly on the bow edge. After that I decide to use the acrylic paints. Also added a bit at the end tabs. Just in case!
Now things get tricky!
Began by forming the sheet along the horizontal axis so it generally followed the curve of the bow.
Then added 3 other curves, concave and convex at frame 5 and the tighter radius at the tip of the bow. When adding the concave and convex, I used a paintbrush handle because of the tapering tip, as opposed to being a straight cut which would have a scoring effect on the paper. That happened anyway, (see pic!) however I managed to 'massage' it out more or less. I was pretty happy with my first effort at putting 3 curves into the one sheet.
Blu-tacked the keel to the mat and dry fitted the sheet several times. Was actually pretty happy with it I was surprised to learn! Took great care the sheet took the form of frame #5.
Decided the time had come to start the gluing! (Gulp!!) Elected to do this in stages, starting at the vertical line where the aft edge aligns, and do one frame with its deck above and keel below per shot.
You can see the progress from various angles and I was even happy with how it met frame #5 with the deck and keel tabs all lining up.
The 'line' caused by the paint brush can't be seen from all angles - see pics.
BUT - I now see a problem emerging - like the other models I am coming up short at the bow by about 2mm.
Tried 'squeezing' the foredeck 'into' the hull sheet - no joy.
Tried lifting the foredeck to let the skin follow the shorter distance now made along the top - it would work, after a fashion - but that would mean cutting down the protruding yellow to match the height of the side sheet - making it unsightly viewed from above.
Considered cutting the foredeck down the middle and leaving a 'V' 2mm wide at the bow then pull the 'V' closed with the side sheet.
At the moment, I think I just have to live with it, come up 2mm short, and paint the gap.
But I'm frustrated now about this - - there must surely be a tried and tested routine for this?? I'm sure they didn't have this trouble on the prototype!!

[PAPER FAN]

That's a really complicated assembly. One of several reasons I prefer the egg crate style. Your model will turn out great though, I'm just not a fan of JSC style tab construction. One reason your lengths may off is the tabs themselves. Many designers don't account for the thickness of the fold that stacks up throughout the build and a reason i cut off almost all tabs and add internal supports.

[herky]

Originally Posted by PAPER FAN

That's a really complicated assembly. One of several reasons I prefer the egg crate style. Your model will turn out great though, I'm just not a fan of JSC style tab construction. One reason your lengths may off is the tabs themselves. Many designers don't account for the thickness of the fold that stacks up throughout the build and a reason i cut off almost all tabs and add internal supports.

these veritas models are not the best but they do make many liners that no one else does

[Positive_Rate]

Hi Gents,

Paper Fan -
I'm not sure I follow you when you say 'account for the thickness of the fold that stacks up throughout the build' Is this something I can do to sort it out do you think?

Herky -
Yes, indeed I did see lots of novelties. Please tell me the more expensive kits actually fit better than this one!

Regards,
Alan

[Ponytail]

"We" should not be too hard on these models.
Them are reprints of Veritas Bouwplaten and designed around 1955-1965, handdrawn.
Very famous in the Netherlands where many kids in those days build them. Dutch boys grew up with them...;-)
Relatively simple, but completed giving a very accurate impression of the real thing.

I don't remember the fittingproblems... must be getting old. :-)

[herky]

Originally Posted by Ponytail

"We" should not be too hard on these models.
Them are reprints of Veritas Bouwplaten and designed around 1955-1965, handdrawn.
Very famous in the Netherlands where many kids in those days build them. Dutch boys grew up with them...;-)
Relatively simple, but completed giving a very accurate impression of the real thing.

I don't remember the fittingproblems... must be getting old. :-)

wasnt being hard, i have never had a problem building them but they were not as detailed as other producers,but like i said on the plus side they do many liners that no one else does

[Positive_Rate]

Hi Willem,
That’s interesting, to me ta credit, it actually doesn’t look like an old hand drawn model, it’s very crisp in the printing.
That said, items like the mainmast and cargo masts are either folded-sheet type or mirror-image flat sheets joined together. Gives a good impression at a distance. I plan the replace the cargo masts for sure (easy to find dowel of the correct dimensions) so yes they look kinda 60’s.
I am frustrated with my setback but will tackle again today.
Regards,
Alan

[scon10]

The basic problem with paper is that you cannot form the paper in double curvatures, such as you need with the bow and stern of a ship. The only thing you can try is moisten the paper slightly and let it dry in the desired double curved shape. But for that you need a mould. I tried that technique when building the Scaldis model of the Nieuw Amsterdam, see my description under my avatar Scon New Threads.
The alternative is to cut the bow (resp stern) in smaller sections and shape them in the main direction. For instance the bow at the very front in a vertical sense, and the part just behind the bow in a horizontal sense. I did that in scratch-building the ms Oranje, see that thread through Scon. I look forward seeing how this build continues.

[Ponytail]

Hello Alan,
I believe the old original was certainly being processed, restored, digitally "remastered" before printing. And also the printing-techniques have improved a lot. A very close look may show some points which shouldn't be there when is was a 'new' digital design... Look f.i. at the close-ups of the decks you posted: the end of the plank are not exact the sam as the would be in digital.

But yhes, they are fine kits: not too complicated and a very good result! Enjoy the build.