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#1
05-14-2020, 07:01 AM
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USS Hornet - SZKUTNIK's Version
Finally started SZKUTNIK's USS Hornet.
The kit I purchased was on the initial release of the model and does not have the corrected decks. Both the hanger deck and flight deck are printed on glossy paper (thinner than desired as well). SZKUTNIK tells me this was corrected early on. In addition the model can use a set of self adhesive decks. I thought I remembered them but must have thrown them away early on and just don't remember doing it. I much prefer laminating the decks and don't trust self adhesive materials over the long term, expect the parts will eventually peal, much like old wall paper. In my case I had to cut up the hanger deck to fit my at home photocopier and made non-glossy decks printed to 80lb card. In the US we don't have access to A4 etc sized paper and in the US metric thickness is not used. Three sheets of the card works well. I used CA glue to laminate, absolutely no warping as seen in the images. Cutting is difficult and I consumed 5 #11 blades to cut out the deck. The laser cut framing is the best I have ever seen. Perfect fit with no play and not to tight to cause twist or warping. I placed the waterline plates on a large piece of glass on the floor then dry fitted all of the frames. Then I placed a smaller piece of glass and 4 red bricks on the assembly. Using a paint brush I painted white glue into the corners and placed small pieces of wood into the corners all while under the weight of the bricks. The finish product is a very flat and square upper hull. After the glue dried I added the hanger deck plates. Next up the lower hull. This will be plated before additional work. The design of the model requires portions of the hanger level assembly be installed before adding the upper hull plates. 
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#4
05-15-2020, 06:04 PM
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Preparing the lower hull for plating. I prefer to add additional support to prevent the skeletor look often seen on these models. The placement of the wood is two fold, it supports the bend and also the frames when sanding the bevel required for the plates. I though of going full solid like I recently did with the cruise build group including Mogami, Nachi, Salt Lake City, and Zara all of which turned out nearly flawless. However with the simple shape of the hull and the quality of this model I decided to use classic plating.
Hopefully by Sunday I will have the lower hull plated. I really like the plate edges being printed on the opposite side of the color, great little detail. It makes finding the cut lines so easy.
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#5
05-16-2020, 08:45 AM
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Impressive hull project here.
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#6
05-17-2020, 05:27 PM
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Lower hull plated. I appreciate the way the model is designed, as mentioned previously the hull plates are marked on the inside. Fit was decent throughout, not perfect but better than average. I decided not to go solid on the hull mostly due to the amount of wood it would take and current limited access to hobby supplies. still the hull issues will be mostly hidden once painted. The prop shafts were the easiest and by far the truest I have made. I wont add the rudder or blades unit the very end, still can't figure out why others apply them early with all the handling required for the model.
The hanger sections are partitioned into small sub-assemblies making the assembly of the hanger seem much easier. I am about 1/3 of the way through "Segment 3", the aft elevator and 5 inch gun mounts. Total time about 2 hrs. Can't be more pleased with the design of this model. Szkutnik, if you sell the New Mexico I'm all in.
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#7
05-18-2020, 06:39 AM
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Hello.
I am glad that work gives pleasure, that was my main goal. Forgive minor problems, the hull was designed by hand without a 3d program. Today I would do it differently, as you can see in New Mexico. Hangar carved from the bow and stern to the center. The midship segment can be tight, it's easier to correct than a gap. I am waiting for further progress, I will try to help with problems. Greetings from Poland
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#10
05-20-2020, 07:23 PM
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Section (Segment) 3 completed other than the rails. The 1st several images are the components dry fitted. The model is subdivided into small sub-assemblies. Each is a model in its own right. The kit is printed one section at a time, care must be taken to observe this as each set the part numbering is restarted from 1 and on up. Like the sections but part numbering should never be repeated as this could become an issue deeper into the main assembly.
The last image is section 4.
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