#21
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Prop Shroud & Rudder
I have mounted all of the parts previously assembled to make up the prop shroud and rudder. You will notice the brass elements; why roll paper when you can use other materials?
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Maj Charles Davenport, USAF (Ret) |
#22
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Display Base
Any model this nice deserves a display base. I finally settled on simulated cast iron hull plate with raised lettering.
1. I cut two sections of Letramax 2000 mechanical board oversize, pre-rolled them the same way we do card and laminated them with Elmers. I needed something large and cylindrical to give a semi-circular cross-section. There you have it; my water heater! Once the Elmer’s set, it was rigid and held its 10” radius cross-section. I trimmed it to size with a table saw. 2. I cut a reinforcing braces and supports and glued the hull plate on with Elmers, clamped it and allowed it to set for a couple of hours. 3. Meanwhile, I went to work on the raised lettering which I made from scrap expanded polyurethane foam sheet, which you can acquire at a sign shop. They are usually more than happy for you to carry away their scraps! I downloaded a free font, UrsaSerif, to create the “CSS Hunley” logo. After to enlarging it to a size that would fit within my 12” x 18” hull plate, I laminated the letters to the foam with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and cut them out individually with my Hegner scroll saw. You can use a jeweler’s coping saw because the foam cuts cleanly and easily. Check photo #3 to see that I wrapped 50 grit sandpaper around the finished hull form and sanded the backs of the letters to the correct profile. 4. This is the semi-finished hull plate with the letters epoxied in place. Before I affixed the letters, I drilled and countersunk a rivet pattern. Hunley’s plates were drilled, countersunk and riveted from inside out. The exterior of the rivet was filed and sanded flush with the surface. Because cast iron has a slightly rough texture, I misted a coat of “granite in a can” (simulated rock out of a rattle can), let it sit a couple of minutes and wiped it back. It doesn’t show very well in the photo because of the flash. When I finish detailing the hull plate and letters, the beauty shot will show the texturing to good effect.
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Maj Charles Davenport, USAF (Ret) |
#23
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Long time coming
Shortly after these photos were posted, I finished Hunley only to have it severely damaged a couple of weeks later....before the beauty shots were taken.
I have since rebuilt my model room and rescued my cherished Hunley from its lonely and forlorn exile. I won't bore you with the details of the recovery. Suffice to say that I painted the model flat black, simulated the flush riveting with Alclad steel, washed it in Rustall, and drybrushed for raise the details with Gunze Sangyo "Iron."
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Maj Charles Davenport, USAF (Ret) |
#24
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Magnificent, Major D! That starboard bow shot is ominous and impressive. Wonderful diorama.
Don |
#25
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Holy crap major! i just read your whole thread but this last picture of its final display is awesome!!! what a great way to display a masterpiece!
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Google Adsense |
#26
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Awesome work. I wish I had your skills. I have trouble finishing models that take over a couple days. Your Hunley looks great! That display realy sets it off right.
CT
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My models are available here http://ecardmodels.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=62 |
#27
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Thank you for the compliments! I competed the Hunley against the wooden and plastic ship modelers at an IPMS contest over the summer. I took best in class, first place, and another award, and there was stiff competition! Just shows what can be done with a paper model.
CT, I have yet to finish the diorama of the Fredericksburg, but when I do, I'll compete it....and win... because you design great models!
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Maj Charles Davenport, USAF (Ret) |
#28
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Wow that IS beautiful...congrats on the well deserved awards!
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regards Glen |
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