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  #11  
Old 08-29-2021, 09:15 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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Those with good eyes will notice that the deck color is not consistent. This bothers me a bit. It is very apparent in the bow area. I am hoping that the deck will be covered with detail that will make it not so obvious. I will have to visit Michaels store to find the right shade of orange. I am not pointing fingers at JSC, I have had the prints for a while so maybe they have aged a bit.
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  #12  
Old 08-31-2021, 02:47 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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Hi all

Not a lot of progress today. I got totally frustrated trying to fold the vanes that fit at the end of the raised deck strengthenings. So I decided to use styrene which I have in sheets of various thicknesses.

I wrote to JSC regarding the card color differences and they immediately replied that this was normal, which I accept. By the way, they also suggested that Velejo "Hot Orange" 72009 is a good match paint. I ordered some via Amazon.

I also ordered some deck rails from JSC. Theirs are better than the ones I have simply because they have a "post" for every single rail which will make it easier to glue to the deck. Mine has a post every 4 rails.

Thats it for now.
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JSC Jahre Viking-img_1115.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1117.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 08-31-2021, 08:46 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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Hi All

I decided to work on the bow winch. The construction calls for a winch deck that is flat in relation to the deck camber and the raised bow. The paper calls for a ridiculously complex long cutout (see pic) that is supposed to wrap around the winch deck with numerous corners etc. Never going to happen. The paper is too thin and it's just ridiculous detail at 1:400 scale. Way beyond my skill anyway

So, I decided to glue the paper winch deck to a thin piece of poly and cut it out. To compensate for the raised main deck I cut pieces of poly to fit the raised winch deck, shorter in front, longer in back so it's flat. The beauty of poly is you can butt joints and glue without tabs. I will paint it later. Hell with the deck camber, nobody will ever notice at this scale.

I have the winch details in Etch and the tubes in poly. I need to complete something in detail, it motivates me.

Sorry to you purist out there! At my advanced age and skillsets, I will use any workaround I can use. Yes, wood and Polly can be your friend!

Thank you
Peter
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JSC Jahre Viking-img_1118.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1119.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1121.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2021, 10:14 AM
sreinmann sreinmann is offline
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That's how I would have approached the problem Peter. Never let a worry about the purists opinion hold you back. Railroaders and plastic modelers don't.

Anyhow, its coming along nicely I think.
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  #15  
Old 09-03-2021, 07:10 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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Hello again,

I have been working so not been a lot of progress. I have built the forward winch station using some mix of card and poly. I will need to paint but that's ok, the "Hot Orange" is on its way from Amazon and the color looks just right. The station model came out really well I think, you can see the poly structure from the pics. So now the new challenge is the etched parts which are all included in the extra pack I have. I know this is NOT going to be nearly as difficult as the paper version. Sorry brass etch is also your friend.

The winch station is going to need some railings, those are on the way from JSC. Kudos to the customer service, I ordered 10 sets of 1:400 railings and they charged me over 40 bucks for shipping. It was 4 bucks so I have been credited immediately. The first-class service thank you. The model requires 'miles' of it so maybe I have some leftover.

I have pictured some of the tools I purchased. The "Praying Mantis" is a magnifying glass that I find indispensable. Purchased from Modelshaven. The heat gun is just a little scary. I purchased it to enable the bending of the poly pipes. The warning labels are just scary as hell. I worry about my 2 cawear ts that are drawn to any form of heat! I think I will use the old spot candle heat method for bending those pipes!

Peter
Attached Thumbnails
JSC Jahre Viking-img_1124.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1125.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1126.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1128.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1129.jpg  

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  #16  
Old 09-04-2021, 02:24 AM
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Kevin WS Kevin WS is offline
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Peter - use the candle method if it works for you.

I have happily used it for years!
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2021, 06:58 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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Hi All

I sell Subarus so normally busy day/holiday weekend. I have no cars! I have Sunday, most of Monday, and my day off Tuesday to make some progress on the model. My wife watching tonight doubleheader Mets baseball, one of her passions, so I did have some time to experiment with the etch parts. The windlass deck has some stairs and railings. I am waiting for the railings from JSC but have the stairs so I decided to make one. I purchased some different size sets from Tom's Modelworks. They come on one sheet in different lengths (heights). Highly recommend them since they are exactly correct. Yes, they are tiny. I did purchase an etch bender. So the first bend was easy. It will get easier I know going forward. I am wondering how to use the bender to make a ] or U shape (flat bottom).

Easy to make the first bend but not sure how to make the second. My instinct is to use one of the small tounges on the bender to trap the stairs. Or maybe trap a piece of say poly cut to the width of the stairs and put the stairs under it so I can bend the ladder rails up 90 degrees. You are supposed to bend the stairs that are flat to make them, well, stairs. I don’t know if I have anything to do that (including my eyesight!)
We will find a way!

All these little parts are going into a cat food storage can. God help anyone that’s decided it's recyclable! My wife is on notice!

Thank you for your input. Let's keep it simple.

Oh, the Valejo "Hot Orange" paint arrived today. It seems a perfect match.
The shipping was more than the paint. Never mind, the cost is not a factor, I am getting a lot of satisfaction in this build process, and thank you for your encouragement and tips. I really appreciate it.

This ship has a special connection to me so I want to create a model, at least to the best of my capabilities.

Peter
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JSC Jahre Viking-img_1132.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1130.jpg  
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2021, 07:11 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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I am sorry Kevin, I did not acknowledge your advice.

Yes, the candle is the way to go for a simple heat source. I have all the pliers and tweezers to make a nice bend once heated. Poly is so easy to work for modelers. I am trying to think about how to make a nice flange joint to fit the pipes. Your eye is naturally drawn to the straight pipelines so they have to look realistic. I am wondering if the hardware store has some tiny washers I could use. Maybe something I can find in Michaels for arts and crafts? Small beads maybe. I am only going to do this for the bigger pipes.

Thanks for following the build. I appreciate it.
Peter
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2021, 06:23 PM
skppbh skppbh is offline
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Hello again,

Some progress on the winch deck and the deck strengthening 'vanes'. I am hoping to get the JSC railing soon but I suspect that the Polish post office is as bad as the USPS so I not holding my breath. I would like to get the part finished before installation on the model which is now quite large for my small workspace. These tiny parts are a challenge for me.

My solution to the 'vanes' was to cut a base out of a very thin poly sheet and glue the vanes onto that. I can glue the whole finished element to the deck. Nobody will know. Got make 4 of these but not hard. I decided to paint once it's installed on the model.
What a ridiculously small bottle of paint for $12 including shipping! It does match, however. The shipping was more than the paint.

I found a relatively easy method to build the stairs. Cut a thin piece of thick card the width of the stairwell and batten it down on my bender. Slide the stair under and bend the 90 degrees needed to make the handrails. Easy!

I had an idea about the pipe flanges. This is important for me since the pipes draw the eye. I think I can find some electrical wire that has the internal dimensions that fit the pipe radius, strip the wire out, and cut very thin strips of the wire shell to make the flanges. Just an idea?

Until next time
Peter
Attached Thumbnails
JSC Jahre Viking-img_1133.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1134.jpg   JSC Jahre Viking-img_1135.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2021, 03:02 PM
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jimbean jimbean is offline
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hi skppbh,
Looks like you are starting to prepare to do the pipes.
I did some research into materials which might be useful to you.
<<<<<<

The photo of the instruction page shows the stack.
The AB,AC,AE and AF pipes are 0.8 mm.
The AD and AE are 1.2 mm.
The AA is 2 mm and the AG..AJ are 1.8 mm.

Altogether there are 7 sizes required. I have done some internet prowling with this result:

mm_____inch___length__what's available
0.5_____0.020____4 ft___24 ga bare solid wire is 0.020
0.8_____0.032___12 ft___1/32 inch BR, BT
1.0_____0.039____2 ft___BT, BR, also 18 ga bare solid wire is 0.040
1.2_____0.047____6 ft___3/64 inch BR, BT
1.5_____0.059____8 ft___BR, also 14 ga bare solid wire is 0.0.064
1.8_____0.074____9 ft___0.072 BR. 13 ga solid wire is 0.072 but not easily bought
2.0_____0.079____4 ft___BR,_BT,_CT_also_12_ga_bare_solid_wire_is_0.08 0


BT - Brass tube
BR - Brass rod/wire
CT - Copper tube

1 mm, 1.5 mm and 2 mm is easily available as native metric.
The other sizes are fudged as wire or english measure sizes.

The long straight sections need to be brass rod or tube so that they stay straight.
However brass is not easily bendable. Some improvisation will be required.
>>>>>

I went a little overboard on my model. It's hard to decide how much to put into the pipes
since they are so visible but so much work. Good luck with them
cheers Jim





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