JSC Jahre Viking

[skppbh]

Hi Jim, I hoped that I might hear from you. Thank you, VM for your info. I did follow your build. I know you used electrical wire and brass rod for those pipes successfully. I am convinced I can use the poly rod to achieve the right look.

We will see...

Thanks for your input. Cheers
Peter

[Positive_Rate]

Hi Peter,

Firstly hats off to you for undertaking such a mammoth project as your first build! I can imagine the inspiration from actually having had the privilege to walk her decks.

I’ve built a few models now and made plenty of mistakes! So yes, any workaround which saves your patience is a good one so you complete the model.

Re tools: From your comments I had some suggestions – in most hardware shops you will be able to find a desk magnifier of some sort which helps me enormously. I have both of these (big at home, small on board the ship) Lights & Magnifiers - Convenient Helpers - Tools - fentens Papermodels (NB: I have no connection with Fentens)

I agree JSC really are excellent models and I always have a very positive experience buying and asking them things. I’m impressed with the 7 ‘V’ section longitudinals in the hull, it must be a very challenging structure to strengthen being so long and flat. In that regard I was thinking how am I going to manage strengthening/supporting my own since I bought the 1:250 version and was flicking through the pages a couple of days ago. A lesson I recently learned (the hard way of course!) was to glue the ‘keel’ plate of the model to glass or a board to prevent warping although with the particular shape of the JV it might not quite be such an issue. But it still might make it easier to move the model around if its attached to a base of some sort?

About the glue: doubtless you already know/found out some glues tend to warp paper (another of my hard way learnings!) Certainly there will be a large amount of large pieces which could be spoiled if they warp. Which do you find is the best for gluing large parts without their warping? I use UHU – but the tube somehow tends to drag a very thin ‘thread’ of glue with it which, if it snaps above the piece you’re working on, leaves a sticky ‘thread’ on your model!

Good idea that you do some of the detail like the winches whilst also working on the smaller parts

I like the etch stairways, might get some myself seeing yours! Great idea about how to make the pipe flanges, I’m impressed with your resourcefulness.

Haven’t come across the ‘candle method’ thus far. Maybe you’d consider doing a post about how you do that?

Great Blog as well by the way, loads of detail about the problems you see and overcoming them.

Regards,
Alan

[skppbh]

Thank you, Alan ('Positive Rate') for your encouragement. You and many others here are the reason I enjoy this site.

The rib structure for the under-deck is surprisingly rigid because of its excellent design. "The Mouse" had his 1:250 stood up next to him and it was as tall as a person, but did not use any additional strengthening. Great idea for maybe a glass base but it really doesn’t seem necessary. I intend to glue the whole thing to a flat water effect base (from JSC). The under hull was not really hard at all, just be prepared to have the tweezers ready to fit the bends into the V section of the cross pieces when gluing.
Since the hull is done I have it aside and propped up and see no issues with bending/warping.

I am happy with UHU glue, what I hate is that use a little, put down the tube to fit the part and the glue oozes out of the tube so you get a blob of semi-dry glue. So I made a little 'prop' that keeps the tube upright while I am working on the model. Seems to work. As I mentioned before I have super glue but you have to be quick! I used 'Elmers Glue All' for the deck. Just a few 'spot welds' were enough and no issues with warping.

GREAT idea on the magnifying, thanks. I will get one at Home Depot or Amazon. I can clamp it on my work table. The glasses I bought are ok but I am not happy using them since I already wear reading glasses. I definitely need help in this area.

I will be certainly posting about the pipes. Not quite there yet. To bend the poly pipes you need a heat source. Like a candle. Once the bend is in it permanent.

Not much new on the construction, but I wanted to acknowledge your post.

Peter

[Positive_Rate]

Hi Peter,

I like the trick with the UHU, the prop to keep it vertical.

I'm very interested about the pipework - now the headwreck begins!

I await your progress!

Regards,
Alan

[skppbh]

The railings came today from JSC. I can finish up the bow winch and install it. You will see from the pics, the railings come with a 'post' for each railing length which makes installation much easier. They are also paper or card which will make them more gluable than the ones in brass ones I purchased which have a post every 4 railing lengths.
Brass is easier to bend and stay bent but a little gentle scoring on the JSC ones will do the trick I think.

I did not realize they come each set comes in 11 rows of railings of 164cm total length so that is about 5 feet of railings for each set! I bought 10 sets which is WAY too much. Oh well, maybe somebody here would like what's left, a gift.

I am going to do a bit more construction then focus on the pipes. If I fail here then another method will need to be contemplated. I need to know one way or another since it's the one part that is not included in the model and one of the most important in my view.

Next time.
Peter

[herky]

Originally Posted by Positive_Rate

Hi Peter,

Firstly hats off to you for undertaking such a mammoth project as your first build! I can imagine the inspiration from actually having had the privilege to walk her decks.

I’ve built a few models now and made plenty of mistakes! So yes, any workaround which saves your patience is a good one so you complete the model.

Re tools: From your comments I had some suggestions – in most hardware shops you will be able to find a desk magnifier of some sort which helps me enormously. I have both of these (big at home, small on board the ship) Lights & Magnifiers - Convenient Helpers - Tools - fentens Papermodels (NB: I have no connection with Fentens)

I agree JSC really are excellent models and I always have a very positive experience buying and asking them things. I’m impressed with the 7 ‘V’ section longitudinals in the hull, it must be a very challenging structure to strengthen being so long and flat. In that regard I was thinking how am I going to manage strengthening/supporting my own since I bought the 1:250 version and was flicking through the pages a couple of days ago. A lesson I recently learned (the hard way of course!) was to glue the ‘keel’ plate of the model to glass or a board to prevent warping although with the particular shape of the JV it might not quite be such an issue. But it still might make it easier to move the model around if its attached to a base of some sort?

About the glue: doubtless you already know/found out some glues tend to warp paper (another of my hard way learnings!) Certainly there will be a large amount of large pieces which could be spoiled if they warp. Which do you find is the best for gluing large parts without their warping? I use UHU – but the tube somehow tends to drag a very thin ‘thread’ of glue with it which, if it snaps above the piece you’re working on, leaves a sticky ‘thread’ on your model!

Good idea that you do some of the detail like the winches whilst also working on the smaller parts

I like the etch stairways, might get some myself seeing yours! Great idea about how to make the pipe flanges, I’m impressed with your resourcefulness.

Haven’t come across the ‘candle method’ thus far. Maybe you’d consider doing a post about how you do that?

Great Blog as well by the way, loads of detail about the problems you see and overcoming them.

Regards,
Alan

i have an old glass top coffee table which i use only for model building

[skppbh]

Hi all,

Thank you Alan for your recommendation for the lighted magnifying thingy. I ordered one via Amazon and already received installed 2 days later. Amazing efficiency! I don't know why I did not think about such a useful tool. Absolutely brilliant!

So the forward windlass is finished baring a few touch-ups and the stairs of course which are made but will go on once the whole assembly is attached to the deck.

I have said before the small details, more specifically, the railings and stairs and the pipes will absolutely make this model really come alive even if my modeling is not up to most of your high standards.

The rails were not too difficult. My new magnifyer will show up my errors but at this scale, it really doesn’t matter. I am into the overall impression. I hope not to offend the expert crafts persons here.

The "Hot Orange" paint is a perfect match by the way.

So again with the glue. The railings require a small dab of glue on each tiny tiny stem. Tried Super Glue, useless - not enough time to position before it's dried. UHU is OK but does anybody have an applicator other than the tube itself. The tube is out of control, too little or, too much. It's driving me nuts. I am beginning to hate the stuff.

Anyway onward and upward. Thank you all for your input.
Peter

[BigGiraffe]

Good Morning, Peter,

I have lots of success with Aleene's Tacky Glue with things like railings (and really, on all card parts). It gives you a little time to position the part, yet also dries quickly enough you can hold it for a minute or two while the glue sets. JSC also makes a "Queen Mary 2" ocean liner and this kit came with plastic railings -- the railings printed on transparency sheets (in my younger days, we used sketches printed on those sheets and projected on the wall, at meetings). But Tacky Glue won't hold plastic. I tried out Aleene's Jewel-It and had good success. My bottle is so old I don't even know if they sell that type anymore, but any bead glue would work on plastic, and I think it would probably work on brass parts. (I'd be willing to try it if I had any brass parts, anyway).

By the way, when I use Tacky Glue, I squeeze out a little on a piece of cardboard, the amount depending on how much I think I need in the next few minutes, and then use a toothpick to apply it to my seam. It is doubtful I could control the amount just using the tip of the bottle. I use the dry end of the toothpick (or another toothpick) to wipe off any excess that blobs out of my seam.

I'm glad you found a paint to match the color. I use felt pens or colored pencils to do the edges of mine, and the tint is never quite perfect.

Best regards,
Kurt

[skppbh]

Hi All,

A little progress today, the windlass is finished, painted, and installed. Remember I did not build in the deck camber, only the raised bow. Well, this was a minor problem solved by using super glue and forcing the small bend. I also built a little deck house near the bow and the bow platform where Jeremy Clarkson stood at the beginning of his show about the ship. (How I miss that show, remember I work for Subaru, so I am a car guy at heart and yes, I am not sure about the 22 WRX, waiting to see it in person. I think I'll stay with my 19 STI). Sorry to digress, I used brass etch for the platform railings, I like the way you can bend it and keep it bent. I probably will use the brass for some tricky bits. The rails from JSC are paper and are more suited to long stretches I think.

The paint match isn't perfect but I recall there were all kinds of shades of red/orange on the ship itself so a little weathered look is fine I think.

I love the little stairways from Tom's Modelworks. I bought 2 sets. I am using the smallest size for now. They are EXACTLY the same as on the ship. I still have not figured out a method to make the flat stairs themselves correctly aligned to make steps, I think very sharp knifepoint and a little pressure. The brass is very soft.
This needs to be done when the stair is installed I think since it's flat when you do the bends. I will figure it out.

You won't see any progress for about 10 days, I am booked for a family visit to the UK. So yes I got tested for Covid 19, 72 hours before as required and that’s was ok, I am vaccinated also so apart from a few other requirements I am ready to fly!

Thank you, Kurt, I tried the glue you recommended, I like it! I found some small leftover needles we used for one of our sick cats and it's a perfect applicator.

Best
Peter

[Positive_Rate]

Great job! Interesting about Toms Modelworks, a new name to me.

Enjoy your trip!