JSC Jahre Viking

[skppbh]

Hi all

UK trip was great, no rain!

I decided to complete the two-deck strengtheners today. Since I did one of them I chose a different method for the second. I glued the two-deck parts to a very thin sheet of poly, used a little tape to attach the two pieces, and attached the paper side pieces to that, ready for affixing the whole assembly to the main deck. I am happy with the result and I could also do away with the interior support since the poly gave it plenty of strength. Nothing like cutting some build corners!

Following my method of adding some detail as I go, I painted and used some 0.020" (0.50mm) Evergreen poly rod for the deck pipes. Very happy to find this would bend with tweezers and stay bent making a realistic pipe bend. I think there is a limit to the radius that will allow this, we will find out soon enough!

The fire-water/foam gun installations were also added. Forget the ridiculous skinny paper pieces to raise them, I just glued the grated floor to a thick piece of poly. By the way, on the real ship, the platforms were open underneath. The guns themselves are represented in the etched cards I purchased and frankly I was disappointed. The real things have a large 'barrel', probably 12" diameter. I am going to come up with a solution for those. On the platforms closer to the edge I added some rails just like the real ship.

One last comment about the paint. I am not unhappy that it does not exactly match the deck red. I think it adds some real-life realism since the decks of the real ship were mottled and all kinds of shades of red due to weathering etc. I want my model to have an overall realistic effect.

Peter

[skppbh]

One small detail about the deck pipes I wanted to mention, even although the poly pipes come in relatively long lengths, the trick is to bend and then glue short lengths at a time. Once thoroughly dry go to the next section, you can bend the remaining unglued straight lengths using tweezers while you go. In other words, avoid trying to make too many bends at once.

[skppbh]

This video is not mine, but it is one of several available showing a deck walk. Notice the weathering of the deck. Jahre Viking half way round the deck - YouTube.
Just copy and paste in your browser, I don't know how to make a live link. It is perfectly safe. This kind of thing is a great reference for me. Notice the fire-water 'guns' and the railings on only the outboard deck strengthening with supports!

[skppbh]

Hi all

I laid down some pipework today. The model calls for 1.5mm for the deck pipes, I used 1.6mm poly which seems to be the limit for a 'cold' bend using plyers. Anything larger will need some heat (ie candle) to soften it for bending. The largest pipe is 2.0mm but does not require any hard bends so I may get away with it.
I am using solid poly pipe, not tubing which is a whole different thing to bend.

My experiment with using stripped and thinly cut electrical wire was not a success for the pipe flanges. A broken iPhone connector was the right size but at this scale, it just did not work out.
For the larger pipes fore and aft, I think it will work. I am happy anyway.

So for the larger pipes support. Big disappointment. The JSC Laser cut parts are virtually useless. They are cut from multi-layered card stock and are so weak and thin they could not possibly work. These should be brass. In fact, I am totally disgusted with the lasers, they are hard to separate from the sheet and just useless especially if they have to support any weight. I am going to have to experiment with thin wire, or maybe extruded plastic. For those who might not be familiar, plastic model kits come with a 'tree' on which the parts are attached. If you heat this tree and pull, a perfectly straight, thin, and firm extrusion occurs which is often used for rigging. This can be bent and manipulated and it's strong.

The starboard deck section is almost complete and installed. Whoa, it was over long somehow! So for the second time, I had to cut a section out making sure that the derricks would not be misaligned.

Peter

[Michael Mash]

I have been watching this project for a while.
The largest model I have ever assembled came out to 30 inches (76 cm).
If I did the math correctly: Your model should be about 45 inches (114 cm)?
Mike

[skppbh]

Hi Michael,

Thank you, you are a legend and I am glad you have the time to follow my build. I follow yours. This is my first paper project and it's hard for me! Yes, it's a big model, about 45" when done on a 1:400 scale. The 1/250 version from Scaldis is huge, tall as a person. I am trying to build a realistic version of the ship I remember. It's not going to be a museum piece that you usually produce, I simply do not have the skill sets.
Loveing being on this wonderful site. Thank you all for your encouragement, it means a lot to me.

[Michael Mash]

Most of us don't get a chance to walk the decks of the ships we build.
So I salute you on that one.
Mike

[skppbh]

Hi all,

Thanks, Michael and Alan for your valued comments. So, Alan, I am in earnest on the pipes and supports. This is a make-or-break moment for me. I decided to tackle the extraction of the supports from the etch. I have to use them somehow. They are hard to extract cleanly They are 5 years old, do they deteriorate in time? I am going to paint them on the sheet which might give them some stiffening. I bought some "Mod Podge" which is supposed to stiffen cards. This could be useful if it works and if it does, I'll use it on the JSC paper railings as well. I will experiment.

So here is my solution. I will use the etch pipe supports which are rubbish in my view and substitute every fourth support with very thin poly support that will not be perfect but will do the support job. I used a shirt pin held by a tiny eyeglass screwdriver to puncture some tiny holes in the deck. These will receive the poly supports. I am not going to rely on the etch.

Next, I purchased 5 sheets of 00.3mm metal mesh from Hobbyisthaven. They come in 4"x4" sheets. I will use it also for some of the deckhouse extraction fans etc.

On the real ship, the pipes rest on a metal mesh supported by the etch supports that are causing me problems. So, if I can create a stable mesh for the length of the pipes I can glue the etch to the mesh before the pipes. The poly supports I make will support the weight of all the pipes and the mesh. I think the tiny 00.3mm mesh will be in scale but who will notice?

So that’s the plan. Hope it works out…

Peter

[skppbh]

Waiting for the mesh delivery for the pipes supports. Meantime I copied the superstructure pages and did some experimental cuts in A4 copying paper which is much too thin of course, but it gives me a handle on what to expect. Remember I am new to paper. I found it important to get the right glue. Acetate is best, Elmers Glue-all has been a huge disappointment. It warps the card badly. Once I can get the pipes solved the superstructure is next. My mock-ups help me to understand the construction method. Most of your know all this stuff already but I am learning as I go. It's fun for me and quite absorbing.

Peter

[skppbh]

Hi all,

Finally, the 3mm wire mesh arrived so I can start to solve the piping. The mesh is perfect to scale. It's metal so it will bend and hold its shape. I ordered 5 sets of 4" x 4" which will need to be joined of course but the pipes are going to play a big role in keeping the whole rig together. I made a sketch of my plan for construction.

The supports are very weak in my view, but they did support Jim Beams brass pipes so we will have to see. I may substitute some with something stronger every couple of inches.

I had the idea of making the pipe flanges using cotton thread that can be fed through the mesh using a needle and around the pipe. I will see.

I will use anything left of the mesh for the deckhouse fans etc.

Best
Peter