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  #31  
Old 06-17-2022, 06:59 AM
PAPER FAN PAPER FAN is offline
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It's not that complicated. I simply use the long neck bottle, medium constancy. Rough cut the work piece leaving the final edge uncut. Lay a border line, not overly thick then zig zag or loop around on the inner region. Use a glass plate with wax paper covering. Lay the part being laminated to on the wax paper then place to work piece over it. Gently push outward from the center in all directions. If I get a bit of glue on my finger wipe it on my pants and continue. Then cut the final size after the glue has set.

Most model card stock is thick enough to not bleed through. For thin sheets, like frames, they bleed through but doesn't matter. See some of my many builds on the site. I often laminate with balsa for ease of cutting and sizing. When doing that I always laminate a sheet of basic copy paper on the opposite side to provide plywood like stability. This makes for super flat decks. Balsa is prone to bleed through, so the wax paper is a must. Often use 1/32 sheet for upper superstructure decks. Another media the works really well is yellow folder covers.
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2022, 10:51 PM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Talking Must be kismet



Just got set up with my garage bench which I bought yesterday and assembled today and guess what was on my porch? Replacement Kit!







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  #33  
Old 07-16-2022, 06:34 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Coating all the sheets including the laser cut sheets with Micador Satin picture varnish on both sides






The first gluing. Trying Roket Card Glue. I'll use the Zap I think for laminating and smaller parts as the Roket gives almost zero time to move after you place the object. Roket seems good for the laser forms, though.

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  #34  
Old 07-18-2022, 05:17 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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More framing


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  #35  
Old 07-19-2022, 05:46 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Vertical Framing Done, Horiz tomorrow

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  #36  
Old 07-26-2022, 06:45 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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So I'm not an expert with this method yet and my balsa was a little non-flat so I tried two strategies. (Thanks PAPERFAN). First one was to do copy paper on both sides and I messed around with spreading. I ended up just putting the paper down eventually and letting the thinnest CA soak through. I don't have glass handy but lots of wax paper. It's not pretty but I glued the deck pieces to it and it will do the trick.




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  #37  
Old 07-26-2022, 06:51 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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While that was going I did my bulkhead reinforcements ala Dan Vadas with some shortcuts by me resulting in higher strength.





Bismarck by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - GPM - 1:200 - CARD and PE - Page 2 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day - Model Ship World™
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  #38  
Old 07-26-2022, 06:55 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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The other balsa deck I tried contact adhesive for the copy paper which results in a much cleaner look but it doesn't seem to stick hard. (still semi-peelable). Once I stick the decks as I have done here, it seems good.

Last pic shows them side by side


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  #39  
Old 07-27-2022, 06:57 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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So it looks like technique two wins. I might do Roket Card next time for the copy paper and then CA for the decks.


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  #40  
Old 07-28-2022, 07:01 AM
rumbeard rumbeard is offline
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Talking

Some wall reinforcements, deck part 1, and adding portholes with the punch n' die set and scrap plastic from my 5 year old's toy boxes.




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