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  #11  
Old 01-07-2010, 03:10 PM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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You chose a beautiful ship to do some fine work on.
I like those open casemates on each side below the superstructure showing the guns.
Mike
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2010, 09:28 PM
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Clashster Clashster is offline
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I agree with Mike, a beautiful ship and a great looking build! I have considered this one (it just looks so nice). Looking forward too more! Awesome work!
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2010, 09:54 AM
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Wyvern Wyvern is offline
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fantastic-looking build! Bravo!

Wyvern
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2010, 11:23 AM
Zathros Zathros is offline
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Is that called a retrousse bow? I have always liked ships like the and if they have a gentle tumblehome, my hairs stand on edge. Superb craftsmanship, I must say!!
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  #15  
Old 01-08-2010, 11:50 AM
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hueydriver hueydriver is offline
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Thanks very much for the kind comments....in R/C or free flight aircraft, we call this "stand-off scale", i.e. it looks better at a distance :o!

The ram bow was especially pronounced on pre-WW I warships of the High Seas Fleet and would supposedly sheer off at a watertight station into the hull of an enemy. I've seen profile ship drawings by the Kaiser himself (he fancied himself as a shipwright) that had very long, sharp prows. It is doubtful if they would have been of tactical use unless the enemy was a surfaced submarine, but they sure were elegant.
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2010, 10:41 AM
Royaloakmin Royaloakmin is offline
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Very nice. Can you talk us through how you do the GPM railings, as I have come to hate the stuff...
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2010, 08:04 AM
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hueydriver hueydriver is offline
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Hi Fred,

The biggest issue is to get the length of the railing correct, so I normally take a width of plain card stock and make a template...this is crucial, specifically around sharp curves, since you may end up meeting a bulkhead with the railing in between stanchions. If that's the case, I'll cut a piece of the supporting grey card holding the railings and create another stanchion. Once the measuring is done and the railing is cut, I'll use a dowel and curve the railing over a piece of foam. Usually, I'll overcurve it slightly so the railing bends inboard. Seems to be easier to glue that way.

If a right angle is required, I'll sandwich the railing between two bits of balsa wood and bend to 90 degrees (or whatever). To keep that shape, I then brush some thinned PVA over the bend to give it some strength. Since there is no bottom railing, the individual stanchions have to have a dot of glue on each one....I use Aileens tacky glue and allow it to dry even tackier so the thin stanchions have a bit of "bite" where they meet the deck or gunwhale.

On the Undine, I did use some PE railings on the midships catwalk, but I hate to paint, so I prefer the GPM card stuff. Hope this helps!

Kirk
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2010, 12:04 PM
Royaloakmin Royaloakmin is offline
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Yes, thanks. Some really good methods here. One thing I did find, if you paint the railing on one side only, let it dry, than paint other side, using acrylics, seems to work with less warping, and also strengthens the railing just a bit. Kittifix also works well as the glue, as it is similar to Alene's.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2010, 08:20 PM
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Bit more work done...masts stepped, some rigging applied and ships boats installed. Lots of numerous small bits to go.
Attached Thumbnails
HMV SMS Undine-006.jpg   HMV SMS Undine-005.jpg   HMV SMS Undine-003.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2010, 09:17 PM
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Michael Mash Michael Mash is offline
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The tall funnels and stunning bow define this one.
Beautiful ship.
Good work.
Mike
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