Aurora - 1:200

[Wiltshiresaint]

I've been working on the hull 'cladding' and encountered my first issues.

The hull plates themselves weren't a great fit to begin with, although I suspect this was as much down to my imprecision on the hull formers as the kit being suspect. Nevertheless I've ploughed on and glued a few in position.

My issues are that with some the fit is so poor I've got 'hull buckling' - even with some sanding and wax I'll struggle to achieve a good hull line. The other problem is that some of the plates have stuck too well to the former, and have indented somewhat. A glance at the attached photos probably shows the problems better that my explanations.

My thoughts on a solution are that I should detach the defective plates and glue them onto very thin plastic card, rather than paper. When I reapply them the plastic card should give the plates enough strength to prevent the indentations occurring. I'll also try to position the plates so that, even if the match isn't quite as per the diagram that came with the kit, the hull line will be smooth.

What do forum members think? Is there a better way to do this? Is it a common problem? I'm wondering if the hull isn't arguably the most difficult part of the kit?

[Papercut]

Hello Wiltshiresaint, glad to see you are plating the hull. This is no easy task regardless of what kit it is. This just happens to be one of those areas I never look forward too. I have built waterline so I did not have to fool with the bottom hull! But we all know you @ some point must build as designed w/a complete hull. I have studied this for some time and watched many people to understand the method for a smooth hull bottom, come to this conclusion, some have mastered this to a art form, some like me have filled the areas in-between the formers for a completely supported surface f/the plating to set on, ie: florist foam, balsa or cover the frame in a heavy card like the aircraft builders do before applying the skin, and lastly just good ole luck helps too. I am now sold on using what works best to either box in the frame or fill w/material of your choice to keep from getting the caved in look of the hull. You also need to watch how you handle, too much pressure between the formers will crush the plating. I hope this has helped.:DRick

[jimkrauzlis]

Hi, Wiltshiresaint!

I haven't built many hulls below the waterline, but it might be a matter of both spacing between the formers and the weight of the paper you are using. What type of paper have you used for the plating? Sometimes if you use a heavier weight there is less of a propensity for buckling...also, adding formers inbetween the formers you have in place helps support the card. Finally, I have seen folks glue apply the plating across a few formers for shape but glue is applied only to the outer edges so the card going across the intermediate formers does not adhere and stress the card into a buckle. I see some of the plating came out fine with out any buckling, maybe the curve is too extreme on those places where you find there to be a problem? Does pre-forming the curve in the plates before gluing in place help?

I would think using a heavier card and then pre-forming the curves might be a possible solution at this point as it seems you have sufficient formers to create the shape you are looking for.

I hope you find the right solution.

Cheers!
Jim

[RAFleischman]

Preforming the hull plates works pretty well for me.

[Barry]

If you are stuck reprint the keel plates but cut them out allowing say 1/4" on the trailing edge and a good edge at the side (gives you something to pull on) start from the bow and stern just overlap the plates. I use 140 gsm paper which is about right then sand and paint it if you want to. If you want to see the effect take a look at theTarawa thread in which the keel is not painted using this method. Preform the strips as well. You put glue on the overlap of the preceding plate and sparingly on the edge of the waterline plate and the rib of the next plate.

[Doug J]

Hi,
I'm scratch building the Constitution and doing my research before hand I happened across some build threads from some other sites and the guys were '' treating'' their paper before assembly.Some used laquer,and I used some old shellac I had around.I painted both sides of mine before assembly and it made it not warp upon glueing.However,Mine isn't a pre printed model so I'm not sure if this will help you or not.For filler get some of the thick white gesso used for treating canvas before painting.It sands good and does work exellent.
Doug J

[Barry]

If you are trying for a neat join over the spine then I suggest you line up the vertical joints instead I think that was why Roman designed the plates this way(split down the centre). It is the most out of sight place to make an adjustment.

[Hambone]

Hi Wiltshiresaint,

Haven't heard from you in a while. Hope that all is going well with Aurora? and that you have not become discouraged and put it aside.

I have struggled with hull plateing and have cussed up a storm when it become difficult and not turn out as I wanted. What I have found that works for me is once I have the basic skeleton built I will place runners between the bulkheads. In your case parts W-1 to W-18. As many as 6 or 7 on each side of the keel peices A-1 to A-3. That will mean at least 12 to 14 runners between each W part. Start in the middle and work to the bow and stern. As you get closer to the bow and stern you can reduce your runners as space dictates. Take a look at what firedajan has done on 'Mary Rose 1511 1:96' in Ships and watercraft to see what I mean. I have used 2mm cardboard or the smallest basewood strips you can find. I prefer basewood over balsa for strength. Then sand until you are satisfied with the smoothness. This is the stage that I glue on the paper strips to the W parts that will later hold the hull plates. When glueing those strips to parts W Start at the very top edge go around the belly to the opposite top edge. And then do the same to parts B-1 thru B-3 horizontally. Now you are ready to install the hull plates. But before you do you need to preshap them with the curve needed to fit the curved hull. Before applying any glue, dryfit. and dryfit again. You will notice that in the center of each hull plate is a real small arrow. This small arrow must be placed in the very middle of the keel pieces A-1 to A-3.

This sounds like a lot of extra work but it is worth it to make a smooth curving hull needed to make a good looking model. I would like to give credit due where credit is deserved but most of these ideas are ones that I have learned here on papermodelers. Many of these guys are master model builders and I do not profess to be any where as good at model building as they are. I have tryed to bring many ideas together to make it easier to understand some theroys on hull plating.

Respectfully,
Dennis

[Wiltshiresaint]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm hanging in there, although progress is slow.

My first major learning is to photocopy the kit before I cut it out next time. That way, if I need to re-work a section I'll be able to without too much effort. The hull cladding I've glued is now too well done to come off without damaging it beyond repair. It'll be a bespoke job in that area from now on.

I've had a look at the Mary Rose thread (another of my former haunts - I used to handle the marketing of the vessel) and I'm inclined to try that approach. Pre-forming the bend is another must and something I omitted last time.

Thanks for the encouragement and hopefully I'll be able to report some progress very soon.