#1
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FGMM Convair XFY-1
I recently received a shipment of Red River silver paper, and am experimenting with it to see how to build with it. My first build was the XF-85 Gremlin, built with basic RR paper with no modification. Lessons learned was that RR paper is doesn't hold a curl like regular cardstock, glue blemishes are easy to get and hard to clear, and that it's thick enough to use for most Fiddler's Green models without reinforcement.
My next project is the Convair XFY-1 Pogo. Changes from the XF-85 build will be using Krylon Kamar Varnish on the RR paper after printing to seal the surface, using regular cardstock for the non-metalic parts, and trying super glue to fasten metallic to metallic joints. That being said, lets begin. I printed three sets of pieces, one on Red River metallic paper, one on regular cardstock, and one on regular copy paper. The metallic paper parts will be used for wings and fuselage, the cardstock pieces for the black nose cone leg stands and wingtips, and the copy paper will be used for the insignia. One problem I had was when I printed out the parts on the RR paper on high resolution the printer didn't print out part of the sides. I wasted three sheets of paper trying to get the parts. I finally got a good set of parts when the printer was set to normal paper and low resolution. |
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#2
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I used a circle template to help form the nose cone. It turned out O.K, but if I wasn't building this model as stock, I think I would smooth out the nose with spackle and sand it smooth.
Since gluing the silver side of the paper doesn't stick as good as the white side, I cut the tabs off and turned them inside out and reglued them to the fuselage sides. I cut some slots in the fuselage for the vertical stabs and made some tabs on the bottom of the stabs to make the joint stronger. I glued the top vertical stab on with super glue, and the metallic paper did not fog. I found that glue blemishes are easily removed by letting the glue dry, wetting your finger on your tongue, and burnish the blemish away using your dampened finger. Using a dampened finger doesn't smear the printing at all. The metallic finish doesn't scratch easily so blemishes are easily removed. |
#3
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Today I made up the wings and finished the nose section. I tried to clean up all the glue blemishes and fingermarks by swabbing the whole model with lightly dampened tissue paper. When I started rubbing down the model, the clear overcoat spray softened and rubbed off, taking some of the printing with it. I don't know if it was the damp tissue alone, or a reaction from the super glue accelerator that softened the overcoat. When I mounted the canopy, the ink flaked off with finger pressure. I will fix this by cutting out parts from the printer paper printout and glue them over the metallic canopy parts.
There was a large gap where the wing's lower surfaces contact the fuselage. I had to make the bend in the lower fuselage below the wing much tighter, and using CA glue managed to merge the two pieces together. |
#4
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I just built and posted my XFV-1 from Modelik. I used Redriver on it and I found laminating it after the original parts are built works best. Also seal the paper first with clear coat. This protects it from glue and is easlily wiped off with a damp cloth. I am going to build this one next becaues I don't have timke for all the detail that the Modelik version has.
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