#11
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CELLUCLAY!! (Thinking Outside of the box)
OK, purists! (Thanks for not hooting me out of the park quite yet!!
So, you make a mold. You fill it with CELLUCLAY, a papier-mache product, made of paper flour and glue..... you get a 3D figure, once it hardens, if it ever does..... But, you still have to have a master figure to make the mold. Let's lean on Preiser to bring back the 1:25 German Firefighters..... then, let's see.... Food for thought.... JR
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1914--1918. WE WILL REMEMBER THEM. |
#12
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I wondered for some time why there are so few kits for actual 3D-paper figures. I think of about 10-20 pcs per figure (head: 2 pcs, arms: 2-3pcs each, body: 1-3pcs, legs: 2-3pcs each, plus some details).
To see what I have in mind, look at my astronaut (1/48): or the crew of my Zeppelin (1/144): I'd really like to see more paper figures! Thorsten |
#13
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Prima!!
Thorsten: If those are 1:48, and PAPER then they are GORGEOUS!!
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1914--1918. WE WILL REMEMBER THEM. |
#14
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#15
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Quote:
That's an ineresting technique for small figures Jos, thanks for posting it. Your paper figures are excellent Thorsten. Could I plead for more details of the 2D shapes you use to make them? |
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#16
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Thanks!
Well for the bigger figures I try to use cylinders or steep truncated cones as base for legs and arms. At the knees and elbows, they can have a thin cut out so that it can be articulated and then glued together again. Feet are boxes with round edges. The body is drawn as a facetted multi-triangle surface with basically irregular hexagonal cros section in top view. The astronaut body consists of about 30 triangles, everything was hand drawn in a 2D-drafting program. But of course it could be done in pepakura too. The head is symmetrical and was also devided into triangles by hand. See the templates, so you will understand. The smaller figures require simpler parts, so the arms and legs are mostly cylinders or just laminated paper. The body is basically the same design as the astronaut but with less triangles. The heads are either boxes, cylinders or truncated cones. In each case, the most important things are careful texturing (cloths folds!), as few seams as possible and smooth building without actually folding on the triangle borders (like with pepakura models). Thorsten Last edited by thorst; 04-24-2013 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Typo |
#17
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Many thanks. The details and link will give me plenty to think about (and to struggle with).
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#18
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Moulding and Casting
Has anybody ever tried moldling and casting using CELLUCLAY?
i.e: make a prototype figure. make a mold cast it using celluclay? Preiser: I need a couple ofsets of your 1:25 German Firefighters!!! JR
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1914--1918. WE WILL REMEMBER THEM. |
#19
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Personally I've found architectural figures available in white plastic in nearly every scale. Usually you can find them off eBay for a couple of bucks. Then I take out my plastic tools and modify them to my needs. I'm doing some 1/200 right now for the modified version of USS Caravan I'm trying to finish up.
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Building - JSC - 1/250 SMS Emden |
#20
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PeopleScale dot com
Herr Admiral Nimitzfan: You and I are on the same page for sure ! However, there are "paper purists" here that disagree with us.....and as long as the publishers keep modeling armor in 1:25, we are kind of SOL.
Jim http://www.peoplescale.com/?gclid=CM...FU_ZQgodBE0Anw Maybe a couple of us can give our bro a hand!!! JR
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1914--1918. WE WILL REMEMBER THEM. |
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