Cardstock Property Tables and Terms

[airdave]

So, exactly as I said, 6 layers of 199gsm card is still 199gsm card.
LOL
If you can find "cardstock" that is 1.5mm thick, I'm sure it would be 1200gsm.
lol
...other than that, this is pointless info being repeated.

Personally, I don't use anything other than "cardstock"
so none of what I said applies to paper, bristol board, matte board, coverstock, or any other form of cardboard.
The cardstocks I buy only come in 32lb, 65lb and 110lb.
(The 65lb and 110lb are 176gsm and 199gsm.)

I only use the 110lb when I want a little more stiffness in my card,
otherwise its thickness is only .1-.2mm thicker than the 65lb.
And the thickness of the sheet is the only thing that concerns me.

Herky, were you asking for a gsm weight so you could actually request material that is already 1.5mm thick?
I'm not sure they make "cardstock" in that thickness...
so you would be buying some sort of "cardboard",
but you would selecting by thickness (rather than weight).

[herky]

Originally Posted by airdave

So, exactly as I said, 6 layers of 199gsm card is still 199gsm card.
LOL
If you can find "cardstock" that is 1.5mm thick, I'm sure it would be 1200gsm.
lol
...other than that, this is pointless info being repeated.

Personally, I don't use anything other than "cardstock"
so none of what I said applies to paper, bristol board, matte board, coverstock, or any other form of cardboard.
The cardstocks I buy only come in 32lb, 65lb and 110lb.
(The 65lb and 110lb are 176gsm and 199gsm.)

I only use the 110lb when I want a little more stiffness in my card,
otherwise its thickness is only .1-.2mm thicker than the 65lb.
And the thickness of the sheet is the only thing that concerns me.

Herky, were you asking for a gsm weight so you could actually request material that is already 1.5mm thick?
I'm not sure they make "cardstock" in that thickness...
so you would be buying some sort of "cardboard",
but you would selecting by thickness (rather than weight).

ok so im guessing the calipers are the correct answer.i want to build sharanus canberra model and he specifies laminating some pieces on 1mm,some on 1.5mm and some on 2mm.no mention of weights which is how i normaly buy card.its the thickness that is important in this case.

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by herky

ok so im guessing the calipers are the correct answer.i want to build sharanus canberra model and he specifies laminating some pieces on 1mm,some on 1.5mm and some on 2mm.no mention of weights which is how i normaly buy card.its the thickness that is important in this case.

Hi Herky,

Yep, calipers, or a digital version if you can find them, they are around $30 here in the USA.

That way you can use them to check posterboard and ceral boxes to see what will work. The back of certain calendars also have what looks like chipboard for a backing, 1.2mm thick. These are the desktop calendars that have the month with big squares so you can write notes etc. on them.

Mike

[herky]

Originally Posted by mbauer

Hi Herky,

Yep, calipers, or a digital version if you can find them, they are around $30 here in the USA.

That way you can use them to check posterboard and ceral boxes to see what will work. The back of certain calendars also have what looks like chipboard for a backing, 1.2mm thick. These are the desktop calendars that have the month with big squares so you can write notes etc. on them.

Mike

ok guess we are going to start eating cereals as thats what most use.hoping it might work with cat biscuit boxes instead

[airdave]

That Canberra model has a pretty complex Hull assembly.
For its scale, its pretty solid.
The formers are at least triple stacked with an excessive amount of ribs.
Should keep that Hull nice and straight.

But judging by the overly complex interlocking former setup,
I can't honestly see why 1.5mm thickness is required?
Personally, I think its overkill.

I would try 1mm for the formers...its a lot less work and materials.
(To get 1mm thickness you can print your parts on regular paper
and then laminate to two layers of cereal box card (or similar).

You can also use 1mm illustration or matte board
(if you want to maintain strength and real stiffness).
But its also a lot harder to cut.

Just my suggestion.

[looker]

Laminating is fun but it is also possible to go shopping for "Mounting Board" or "Mount Board" which, although a bit pricey, is available in a variety of suitable "thick" thicknesses.

Of course you may find you need your 185mm (7 1/4") circular power saw to cut it.

[herky]

Originally Posted by airdave

That Canberra model has a pretty complex Hull assembly.
For its scale, its pretty solid.
The formers are at least triple stacked with an excessive amount of ribs.
Should keep that Hull nice and straight.

But judging by the overly complex interlocking former setup,
I can't honestly see why 1.5mm thickness is required?
Personally, I think its overkill.

I would try 1mm for the formers...its a lot less work and materials.
(To get 1mm thickness you can print your parts on regular paper
and then laminate to two layers of cereal box card (or similar).

You can also use 1mm illustration or matte board
(if you want to maintain strength and real stiffness).
But its also a lot harder to cut.

Just my suggestion.

thanks that makes sense to me

[airdave]

Herky...am I reading this wrong?
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/455020-post121.html

In Sharuna's own thread (about the Canberra model)
he reveals that although he originally suggested 1.5mm for the formers and internals,
he ended up using 1mm thickness because it was easier to work with...?

...
I am no Boat model expert, so I may be way off here, but it looks to me like Sharuna
has designed a sufficiently complex internal structure that can be constructed with 1mm thick card.
1.5mm thickness is probably unnecessary.
But I do see his point about the extra rigidity for the deck plates.
(Although, this is where he was satisified to use only 1mm material)
Like many internal structures, it comes down to how well you cut the parts and align them.
The real strength comes from how well everything is put together.

Taking the time to cut clean, straight, aligned edges, properly sized slots and interlocking parts,
and then assembling carefully, keeping parts squared and properly aligned...
will make or break any "boat" model.
I learned this from all the builds of Kooklik's Uboat.

[mbauer]

Originally Posted by airdave

The real strength comes from how well everything is put together.

Taking the time to cut clean, straight, aligned edges, properly sized slots and interlocking parts,
and then assembling carefully, keeping parts squared and properly aligned...
will make or break any "boat" model.
I learned this from all the builds of Kooklik's Uboat.

Dave, this is the best tip I've read in a long time!

Mike

[herky]

Originally Posted by airdave

Herky...am I reading this wrong?
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/455020-post121.html

In Sharuna's own thread (about the Canberra model)
he reveals that although he originally suggested 1.5mm for the formers and internals,
he ended up using 1mm thickness because it was easier to work with...?

...
I am no Boat model expert, so I may be way off here, but it looks to me like Sharuna
has designed a sufficiently complex internal structure that can be constructed with 1mm thick card.
1.5mm thickness is probably unnecessary.
But I do see his point about the extra rigidity for the deck plates.
(Although, this is where he was satisified to use only 1mm material)
Like many internal structures, it comes down to how well you cut the parts and align them.
The real strength comes from how well everything is put together.

Taking the time to cut clean, straight, aligned edges, properly sized slots and interlocking parts,
and then assembling carefully, keeping parts squared and properly aligned...
will make or break any "boat" model.
I learned this from all the builds of Kooklik's Uboat.

the formers as printed state using 1.5mm and yes the decks state 1mmthe rest of parts are designed for 180 to 200gsm card