Rolling Pin with free beverage and laminating with PVA glue

[John Wagenseil]

I was searching for a non stick rolling pin.
The ones at cookware stores and in the utensil section of the supermarket cost more than I wanted to pay. Breyers at art supply stores were also pricey.
Then I found a large assortment of thick walled glass rolling pins in an variety of pretty colors that are affordable and come wrapped around a beverage. They have the bonus of being recyclable.
Tall straight sided bottles are perfectly shaped to serve as rollers.

When laminating two sheets together using PVA glue, I have found that putting the sheets between two sheets of wax paper controls squeeze out and keeps the roller clean.
To keep the paper from wrinkling when glueing up with high water content PVA glue, I sandwich the sheets between sheets of wax paper, and put that between layers of newspaper, put something heavy and flat on top of the paper sandwich, and let it dry out. If the newspaper layers get damp from squeezed out moisture, I replace it with dry newspaper. Several sheets being glued can be stacked up in layers under a single weight.


FLAT_WEIGHT
layer-of-newspapers
waxpaper-sheet
paper
glue
paper
waxpaper-sheet
layer-of-newspapers
FLAT_SMOOTH_SURFACE
(Formica table top, stainless steel cookie sheet, glass plate)

I have only done one laser printed model this way, but it worked out well. I coated the laminated sheets with a thin coat of Elmer's washable clear school glue usingf an iceing spreader. This gave a surface that could be glued and kept the pigment from flaking and scratching. The completed model was given a dusting of matte varnish.

[mbauer]

Used to use a similar method for laminating several layers using PVA glue. Stopped doing this when after a couple of years on the shelf the models started to delaminate.

After testing several glues for laminating, now only use 3M Brand Super 77. All the glues tested delaminated eventually, including the Elmer's spray craft glues.

After rolling with a bottle like you have, I would place the parts between plastic wrapped shelving boards and then place heavy books and workout weights on top to keep compressed, they still delaminated over time.

This was done using 6-layers of cardstock to make stiff heavy duty parts.

Hoping you have better luck, but thought to mention my issues when trying to use PVA for laminating.

Mike

[John Wagenseil]

Originally Posted by mbauer

Used to use a similar method for laminating several layers using PVA glue. Stopped doing this when after a couple of years on the shelf the models started to delaminate.
Mike

Thanks for the input.
I just started doing this so I will have to wait a few years to see what happens. I know there is a problem with rubber cement breaking down with time, but I thought PVA would be longer lasting.
I have a model ship hull made from laminated paper strips and wood glue which is several years old and it appears to be holding up.

When I was building up the ship hull I kept adding layers while the previous layer was still tacky and moist. When laminating multiple layers, if the PVA had soaked through the paper and set, the PVA for the next layer would have nothing to grab, the next layer of paper would be trying to stick to a slick surface impregnated with cured PVA .
This would be a weak bond since the next layer of glue would have nothing to grab and it might take only a little mechanical stress to make the bond come apart.
Now that I think about it while I do not expect my layers to de-laminate, the model might eventually break apart at the tabs where old and new glued surfaces are stuck together.

If I was ambitious I would laminate up a bunch of tubes and cubes and put them on the window sill next to a potted plant to see what sun, high humidity and being knocked around does to them.