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  #11  
Old 11-04-2016, 09:16 AM
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I have seen the models from Young C. before, they inspired me to use real aluminium, but his models are in a big scale witch its more "easy" to buid them but in 1:33 scale its another world
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2016, 11:42 AM
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Print on Aluminum Surface

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Originally Posted by busoramas View Post
I have seen the models from Young C. before, they inspired me to use real aluminium, but his models are in a big scale witch its more "easy" to buid them but in 1:33 scale its another world
The smaller scale is the main reason I chose the "printing on aluminum" route. Below is from an experiment series wherein an inkjet coating was developed that allowed printing onto an aluminum foiled card stock (complete with thumb print). The lines are straight from a CAD drawing transferred onto the aluminum via the inkjet printer. The idea is that rivet detail could be modified with a graphics drawing package for an improved effect. An issue with the inkjet coating is that is not waterproof and has to be sprayed with a sealer which has a dulling effect on the "look" of the aluminum. The anodized inkjet printing method in contrast has greater durability though dulled somewhat by anodizing process is still the lead contender in the ongoing quest.


Printing rivet detail on the surface at least tells you where the rivet detail needs to go.

Rojas Bazan's technique is more in line with the build direction.

-Gil
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2016, 07:08 PM
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Paul,

No I haven't finished the model - I am still developing technique(s) required to build one using 0.005" aluminum tooling foil.
How does this tooling foil compare to heavy duty aluminum foil you get in the grocery store?
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2016, 12:56 AM
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Tooling Foil vs. Kitchen Foil

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How does this tooling foil compare to heavy duty aluminum foil you get in the grocery store?
Kitchen foil needs a paper backing to use in card modeling. Tooling foil can be used in its sheet form and is strong enough to use as is. Plastic modelers have been successfully using kitchen foil to "foil" plastic models to great effect.

The 0.005" tooling foil comes in a dead soft state allowing if to be formed into compound curved panels that fit the airframe surface. Forming it uses nearly identical methods to those used for the full scale subject by the restorer community only smaller in scale and suitability for the purpose.

Below shows the nose from a Grumman F6F backed with tooling foil and then formed. It turned out fairly well as this was a first go at this technique. The model was scanned and printed on 100% cotton rag which is better suited to the purpose.

After similar experiments I've become comfortable with tooling foil as a suitable building material for card models.

-Gil

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  #15  
Old 11-11-2016, 10:37 AM
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Taking the advise of Bob I decided to do another test with this technique, a complete P-47D wing, with all the panels and rivets, it took a lot of time but the result is fantastic, also the gear bay is done with paper and aluminium and paited after so simulate a real wear, when finish the wing also will paint it with the clasic yellow line.

I like the aluminium finished but, I this this is going far from what a paper model is
Attached Thumbnails
Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-7.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-8.jpg  
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  #16  
Old 11-11-2016, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busoramas View Post
...
I like the aluminium finished but, I this this is going far from what a paper model is
The finish of natural aluminum is very nice.
Another hobby of mine is metal embossing, and I use mainly aluminum.
Is a wonderful metal to handle, and can be painted/treated in several ways.

Now... there are several paths you can follow when modelling.
All of them are valid. What matters is that you enjoy it yourself,
and that you are pleased with the result.

Personally, I think you should not worry about deviating from the materials.
A model is a model. And usually a model has more than one material.
Only seldom you see a paper model made entirely of 100% paper.

After all, even the 1:1 real objects were also made of several materials.

I find interesting that people explore this other techniques. They can teach a lot.
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  #17  
Old 11-11-2016, 11:57 PM
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Take your time...,

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Originally Posted by busoramas View Post
Taking the advise of Bob I decided to do another test with this technique, a complete P-47D wing, with all the panels and rivets, it took a lot of time but the result is fantastic, also the gear bay is done with paper and aluminium and paited after so simulate a real wear, when finish the wing also will paint it with the clasic yellow line.

I like the aluminium finished but, I this this is going far from what a paper model is
Paul,

It gets easier as you become more practiced. Take a break and let what you've done sink in awhile. No race to perfection ended in perfection...,

-Gil
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  #18  
Old 11-12-2016, 03:00 AM
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Thanks Ruben for your support!
Gil I am like a well greased machine, once I start cant stop! but I understand what you meant

regards
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2016, 10:24 AM
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They wing is done, I also try paint the aluminium with enamel paint to see the final effects, not bad, I thinking to finish the complete model but noxt time I will use airbrush instead normal brush.
regards
Attached Thumbnails
Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-13.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-10.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-11.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-12.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-9.jpg  

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  #20  
Old 11-13-2016, 11:30 AM
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Very nice work Paul!
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