Real aluminium

[WVA]

A thought on laser cutting the pieces. Low power lasers don't want to cut metal - of any form. One of the problems is the metal reflects the beam.....not good. Perhaps lasering from the back (paper side) would work. I haven't tried it. You would have to make all your templates (drawings) reversed. (Or build it inside out??)

Jim

[VinceM]

I wonder how it would cut with a Cricut?

[busoramas]

Originally Posted by Gil

Laser cutting has a definite advantage in building with aluminum. I've been thinking along those lines - offsetting the framework by 0.006 " so that aluminum strips can be laid down on the framework prior to the application of skin panels. The skin is laid down in much the same way as the full scale aircraft. Each panel has to be carefully prepared in advance with all the pertinent detail applied before it is fitted to the framework - tedious? Depends upon how you feel about modeling.

When it comes to riveting tools I have collected the usual assortment(s) - from pounce wheels for sewing to pounce wheels for rivet lines on plastic models and hypodermic needles specially prepared and mounted in pin vises. As you might expect riveting becomes an entire subject category unto itself. Note that not all rivets can be seen on an aircraft at photo distances - but modelers persist in having them there anyway. There might be other ways for representation than "denting" the aluminum..., Needless to say, a variety of sizes is needed for "scribing in" the variations found on a typical subject.

One other aspect of using aluminum on a model is that it can be "formed" into compound curves impossible with paper media. This is another area that needs practice prior to taking on the task. It's not that difficult and after a little practice is quite pleasurable. Take a look at Guillermo Rojas-Bazan's work - he's notably the best known and certainly the most prolific of the "all aluminum model makers". His site is here but is down at the moment. You'll see that you have already mastered some of the techniques he uses in his models. The one thing that you will realize is that he is a master at obtaining detailed and accurate documentation - you can never have too much...,

Best regards,

-Gil

yeah you are rigth,

I'm still thinking in the laser cut of aluminium decal foil, like the aluminium tape, if all part are cut it save lot of work you just need to stick parts to the paper ones, I'm thinking like normal paper modeling but you cover or stick the adesive aluminium parts.

About rivets, well as you said some are invisibles and some not, but we can try to find the same effect when rivetting, if you look at the model a bit far some rivets hide from the view, but when you get close they appear.

I have tried to shape the aluminium tape but its a bit difficult, maybe becouse is too thin or maybe I have no practice.

I will continue developint techniques!

regards

[busoramas]

Originally Posted by richkat

As you might expect riveting becomes an entire subject category unto itself. Note that not all rivets can be seen on an aircraft at photo distances - but modelers persist in having them there anyway.

That has drove my crazy for years...MOST RIVETS CAN"T BE SEEN!! I have never understood why modelers insist on making them so BIG, I'm fine with pane lines (but those are overdone a lot) but rivets at 1/33 would be invisible.....just my 2 cents worth.......Rich

well I have noticed that in a plane there are also screws small rivets, big rivets, at least screw are big enough to have been seen in a 1:33 model.

[busoramas]

Originally Posted by Gil

Below is a visual of what was meant on the little ramble on pucker - note the puckers at the very edge of the surface. This is kitchen foil that's been treated with an inkjet receptor coating bonded to 65# cardstock.

Kitchen Aluminum Foil on 65# Cardstock


The inkjet receptor coating was self researched and designed but requires a protective coating to be applied. I've come up with a different method for inkjet printing on aluminum but that's for reserved for another post flow.

A thicker foil (0.005") on 100% cotton is shown below. The experiment was a first go at doing an "inside out" forming method.

0.005" Tooling Foil bonded to 100% Cotton Stock


-Gil

the kitchen aluminium part its really good!

[busoramas]

Originally Posted by WVA

A thought on laser cutting the pieces. Low power lasers don't want to cut metal - of any form. One of the problems is the metal reflects the beam.....not good. Perhaps lasering from the back (paper side) would work. I haven't tried it. You would have to make all your templates (drawings) reversed. (Or build it inside out??)

Jim

that sound really interesting, with what kind of aluminium have you tried?

can you try with the paper side?

regards

[busoramas]

Originally Posted by VinceM

I wonder how it would cut with a Cricut?

never tried before but I guess after cut some parts you need to change the cricut blades

[WVA]

that sound really interesting, with what kind of aluminium have you tried?

can you try with the paper side?

I belong to a work group that has a couple of lasers to cut wood (3/4 inch thick) plexiglass, paper, fabric, etc., and etch glass. We are forbidden to try metal. However, the next time I am making parts ( a week or so) I will give kitchen foil on the back of some card stock a try. I'll let you know how it works. Jim

[busoramas]

well this is getting shape, I finish the cockpit, pilot and canopy, its a slow work for the details but at the end will be a nice model, I'm thinking next model with this technique will be a F86 Sabre.

regards

[busoramas]

The first time they saw it they tell that is huge and wont work...