#1
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Real aluminium
What if we glue real aluminium sheets on the paper with the exactly square forms to match the wing/fuselage/ any part of the plane? I did a small sample and the resoult is quit good, a complete model could be a lot of work with lot of parts and dots but the finished must look real
regards |
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#2
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Couldn't Agree More...,
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#3
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Gil, fantastic work on your aluminium parts, I was thinking almost the same for the canopy of the propellers, did you finish your model?
I tried a thiker aluminium and epoxi glue, also roll the surface after the "dots" and paint joint with water color pens, I think this is the best technic. But I dont know witch model should I build like that, P-51? P38? B25? Mig-15?... regards |
#4
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How about a P-47 Thunderbolt ?
__________________
~Doug~ AC010505 EAMUS CATULI! Audere est Facere THFC 19**-20** R.I.P. it up, Tear it up, Have a Ball |
#5
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On Aluminum Tooling Foil
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No I haven't finished the model - I am still developing technique(s) required to build one using 0.005" aluminum tooling foil. I am currently working on a process that allows high resolution inkjet printing on aluminum foil by first anodizing the aluminum surface. This is a bit "out of the range" of most modelers but I find it fun to push the border a bit too far every once in a while just "to have a peak" to see if it will actually work. Always one for learning from deep failure mode I have become accustomed to it as a learning style..., Another item is learning the art of forming the foil into compound curves "with" rivet and panel line detail followed by applying those panels to a model "airframe" - just like the full scale subject only scaled down. The panels can be decorated before application as in the anodized inkjet solution or afterward - the traditional mask, paint and decal work. What intrigues me about the anodizing/inkjet solution is its ability to withstand the compound curve forming process. Applying computer generated artwork on the aluminum sheet prior to cutting and forming aggregates some of the best techniques to decorate a model laser cut airframe. On bonding a prepared aluminum surface I recommend "Loctite" brand, Ultra Gel Control. It is a rubberized CyanoAcrylate (CA) with a unique dispensing system that allows micro dot control and does not brick-out if not used over long periods. I have found it the best bonding agent for aluminum to aluminum bonds. It is widely available in the glue section of department through hardware stores. I use it as an all purpose glue around the house. Best, -Gil |
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#6
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A while back Fiddlersgreen was referencing a book about using aluminum from pop cans (or other beverage). I managed to build one but found too many other things to do. The first model, a DC-3, was interesting but needs correcting. As they say, practice does something or other.
Bob Neill |
#7
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Aluminum Can Modeling
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A quote from May 2010. I fully understand why most who make models from aluminum cans do so without removing the graphic detail..., -Gil |
#8
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@SCEtoAUX - P47 its a great model also, I think to start with a bi-motor model like P38-DC3 still searching.
@Gil - If I understood well are you creating aluminium sheets that someone can use for theirs inkjet printers? well interesting solution, For me I am interested in recreate the original panels, same shape, one by one to fit with the original model and all the details. @Bob - I would like to see your DC-3, and I think its very complicate work with aluminium from cans its to much thick |
#9
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Yes...,
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-Gil |
#10
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speaking of aluminum models, this gentleman right here had taken the idea into the extreme:
Model Makers—Young C. Park In retrospect, paper modelling actually very similar to real methods of aircraft manufacturing.
__________________
Out of commision, become a pillbox; out of ammo, become a bunker; out of time, become heroes |
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