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Old 11-02-2016, 02:25 PM
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busoramas busoramas is offline
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Real aluminium

What if we glue real aluminium sheets on the paper with the exactly square forms to match the wing/fuselage/ any part of the plane? I did a small sample and the resoult is quit good, a complete model could be a lot of work with lot of parts and dots but the finished must look real

regards
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Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-1.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-2.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-3.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 11-02-2016, 02:42 PM
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Couldn't Agree More...,

Paul,

I couldn't agree more...,

Aluminum Experiment

Natural Aluminum Finish

-Gil
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2016, 03:59 AM
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Gil, fantastic work on your aluminium parts, I was thinking almost the same for the canopy of the propellers, did you finish your model?

I tried a thiker aluminium and epoxi glue, also roll the surface after the "dots" and paint joint with water color pens, I think this is the best technic.
But I dont know witch model should I build like that, P-51? P38? B25? Mig-15?...

regards
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Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-4.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-5.jpg   Real aluminium-aluminium-wing-6.jpg  
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:32 AM
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How about a P-47 Thunderbolt ?
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:04 AM
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On Aluminum Tooling Foil

Quote:
Originally Posted by busoramas View Post
Gil, fantastic work on your aluminium parts, I was thinking almost the same for the canopy of the propellers, did you finish your model?

I tried a thiker aluminium and epoxi glue, also roll the surface after the "dots" and paint joint with water color pens, I think this is the best technic.
But I dont know witch model should I build like that, P-51? P38? B25? Mig-15?...

regards
Paul,

No I haven't finished the model - I am still developing technique(s) required to build one using 0.005" aluminum tooling foil.

I am currently working on a process that allows high resolution inkjet printing on aluminum foil by first anodizing the aluminum surface. This is a bit "out of the range" of most modelers but I find it fun to push the border a bit too far every once in a while just "to have a peak" to see if it will actually work. Always one for learning from deep failure mode I have become accustomed to it as a learning style...,

Another item is learning the art of forming the foil into compound curves "with" rivet and panel line detail followed by applying those panels to a model "airframe" - just like the full scale subject only scaled down. The panels can be decorated before application as in the anodized inkjet solution or afterward - the traditional mask, paint and decal work.

What intrigues me about the anodizing/inkjet solution is its ability to withstand the compound curve forming process. Applying computer generated artwork on the aluminum sheet prior to cutting and forming aggregates some of the best techniques to decorate a model laser cut airframe.

On bonding a prepared aluminum surface I recommend "Loctite" brand, Ultra Gel Control. It is a rubberized CyanoAcrylate (CA) with a unique dispensing system that allows micro dot control and does not brick-out if not used over long periods. I have found it the best bonding agent for aluminum to aluminum bonds. It is widely available in the glue section of department through hardware stores. I use it as an all purpose glue around the house.

Best,

-Gil


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Old 11-03-2016, 10:47 AM
bob neill bob neill is offline
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A while back Fiddlersgreen was referencing a book about using aluminum from pop cans (or other beverage). I managed to build one but found too many other things to do. The first model, a DC-3, was interesting but needs correcting. As they say, practice does something or other.

Bob Neill
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Old 11-03-2016, 04:01 PM
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Aluminum Can Modeling

Quote:
I tried aluminum cans also. Finally realized that the hassle of removing labeling (paint remover) and getting the surface flat was too much trouble considering that the aluminum alloy used will not temper to "soft" or "dead soft". It's good for some applications but can't easily be "worked" for many modeling applications. Conversely, tooling foil is dead soft and can be formed into about any shape necessary to produce a modeling aluminum analog.

I came to the same conclusion regarding the use of urethane glue. Thinning it a little with toluene makes it easier to apply...

+Gil

A quote from May 2010. I fully understand why most who make models from aluminum cans do so without removing the graphic detail...,

-Gil
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Old 11-03-2016, 04:01 PM
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@SCEtoAUX - P47 its a great model also, I think to start with a bi-motor model like P38-DC3 still searching.
@Gil - If I understood well are you creating aluminium sheets that someone can use for theirs inkjet printers? well interesting solution, For me I am interested in recreate the original panels, same shape, one by one to fit with the original model and all the details.
@Bob - I would like to see your DC-3, and I think its very complicate work with aluminium from cans its to much thick
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Old 11-03-2016, 04:36 PM
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Yes...,

Quote:
Originally Posted by busoramas View Post
@SCEtoAUX - P47 its a great model also, I think to start with a bi-motor model like P38-DC3 still searching.
@Gil - If I understood well are you creating aluminium sheets that someone can use for theirs inkjet printers? well interesting solution, For me I am interested in recreate the original panels, same shape, one by one to fit with the original model and all the details.
@Bob - I would like to see your DC-3, and I think its very complicate work with aluminium from cans its to much thick
Actually, both. Printed panels that are then formed to fit the laser cut fuselage.

-Gil
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  #10  
Old 11-04-2016, 05:58 AM
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Raja Ahsani Raja Ahsani is offline
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speaking of aluminum models, this gentleman right here had taken the idea into the extreme:
Model Makers—Young C. Park



In retrospect, paper modelling actually very similar to real methods of aircraft manufacturing.
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