#11
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Why make it when you can just wimp out and buy it?
LOL First time I built my PTBoat model, I used wire for the Railings around the Gun Turrets and at the rear of the Boat, next to the AA Gun. This time, when I recently built my Disruptive Camouflage PTBoat, I decided to experiment. I had already printed the 1:1 patterns for the railings (that are included in the kit). Its just black line art on cardstock. So, I coated one side with a thick coat of white glue and let it dry thoroughly. (A full day) Then I turned it over and traced the patterns with a Black marker, and coated it with white glue again. Another day to dry... and then I hand cut out the Railings with my Hobby Knife. I rushed through it, leaving a narrow white outline on the printed side. I could have cut the lines much thinner and tighter, but I actually thought the white edges would help the railings stand out a bit. (And the fact that the Boat is black and White...it kind of made sense) It turned out to be a cheap and easy...and quick way of making Paper Railings. For me, to keep as much of the model as possible in Paper, was my goal.
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#12
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That certainly seems like an easy enough process. I'll have to experiment with it. Might challenge my cutting and handling skills, but hey, there's only one way to improve those.
Love the new avatar, Airdave. --jeff |
#13
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I only used PVA Glue on each side of the card (before cutting).
You could coat the paper in CA Glue for better rigidity and strength but I don't know how that would affect cutting out the parts. I think a PVA Glue coating cuts a lot easier and cleaner. You could soak the parts in CA Glue after they have been cut and formed? ... I guess its hard to judge the scale from my photos, so heres a shot that better shows the size of the railings. I'm not sure about cutting 1mm or thinner Railings, but you can definitely cut the glue soaked paper pretty fine.
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#14
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I've made decent railings out of fly tying thread. Soak the thread in white glue and let it dry. Use unwaxed tying thread so the glue will work with it. I make stanchions out of larger thread that's been treated the same way and use a notched board (treated with furniture or floor wax so the glue won't stick to it) to arrange the stanchions and hold them for gluing the rails to it.
I'll admit though that I've been very lazy in recent years, resorting to the use of photo-etched railing.
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Randy |
#15
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If your knife handle's blade slot is wide enough, you could try installing two blades. I believe a member year's ago used this method for cutting thin strips.
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#16
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Dave, that is a brilliant and neat solution for railings. I usually need smaller, but I will definitely try this - nothing to lose at all, and I reckon on a smaller scale it will still work fine.
------------------------------ Jeff, when you are cutting something like this don't try to do it freehand - use a steel ruler. I cut the right angles in the corners first by just pushing the knife blade down (freehand) and then I use a ruler on all the straight lines. Just stick some masking tape (the brown paper type) one side of the ruler - this stops it slipping on the paper.
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The SD40 is 55 now! |
#17
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Quote:
but it makes a clean, sturdy cut. It is better to apply the CA, then hit it with a shot of accelerator. Quickly sand it smooth, as CA tends to cure rather pebbly on paper. And you usually have to treat both sides. At least, that is how I do it, and it worked for me. Your results may vary.
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Ray Respect the Paper, RESPECT IT! GET OFF MY LAWN! |
#18
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Based on laser cut experience, you can go to crazy level in making thin strips. The act of cutting with knift deforms the paper around the cut slightly and could make it a little less durable than laser cut results, due to teared paper fibres. It's worth trying
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"The world is big" On hold: Fuyuzuki, Zao, Zara, Akizuki, Past works: XP55 Ascender, CA Ibuki, Seafang F32, IS-3, Spitfire V, J-20 |
#19
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AIRDAVE TO THE RESCUE!
For many months I've had a completed kit, except for the fore and aft guard rails, of the bathyscaphe "Trieste" sitting on my workbench. These rails were driving me nuts (short trip). I have tried forming them from wire, styrene rod, bamboo and pine needles. All to no avail. Then I tried your method. Viola... it worked. Not only is my model now finished, but you have saved me from the infamous rubber room. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
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AKA Richard's latest build: 1/Arquitectura Popular Manchega /Venta (Diputacioeión de Albacete) |
#20
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lol well, post some pictures then!
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